Xiaomiβs current Redmi series smartphones are known for their metal body, which on the one hand looks stylish and provides protection, and on the other hand significantly complicates the repair process. Owners of the Redmi 5 Plus model (also known as the Redmi Note 5 Pro in some regions) often face the need to replace the battery or connectors, but do not know how to properly start disassembling.
The main difficulty is that the device does not have screws holding the back panel outside, and opens from the end. This requires care, because the inside of the perimeter is a plume that is easily damaged by inept actions. Incorrect opening can lead to a break in the antenna plume or damage to the plastic mounts, which will make assembly impossible without additional spare parts.
In this article, we will discuss in detail what tools will be required to safely dismantle the back cover, how to disable the plume and how to subsequently restore the tightness of the case. Compliance with technology will allow you to perform the replacement of the battery yourself, while maintaining the aesthetic appearance of the gadget.
Workplace preparation and necessary tools
Before you start physically affecting your smartphone, you need to organize space. Working with small electronics requires good lighting to see microscopic screws and plumes. It's also important that the table surface is clean and has no pile that can get inside the case.
To successfully perform the procedure, you will need a specific set of tools. The use of improvised tools, such as knives or sharp screwdrivers, is strongly discouraged, since there is a high risk of damage to the aluminum frame or break the display glass when slipping.
- π§ Heating element: hair dryer (construction or household) or a special heating pad for heating glue.
- π΄ Plastic card or thin mediator for snapping latches.
- π© Torx screwdriver set (star) for screws inside the case.
- π§° Plastic shovel (poodger) for undermining components.
Special attention should be paid to the heating element: the glue that holds the lid at room temperature is very hard; without preheating, trying to tamper with the panel will cause it to deform or crack; the optimal heating temperature is 80-90 degrees Celsius.
The heating process and the initial opening of the body
The first step is to soften the adhesive layer. Turn on the dryer and set the average temperature of the airflow. Direct the jet to the ends of the device, evenly warming the perimeter. Don't hold the hair dryer too close to overheat the internal components, especially the battery.
The heating process usually takes 2 to 4 minutes. Periodically touch the metal frame with your finger - it should become hot, but not burning. If the body cools faster than you can work, the procedure should be repeated. Cold glue holds the lid firmly, and the risk of damage is high.
β οΈ Attention! Do not heat the area in the center of the back where the camera and flash are located too intensely. Local overheating can damage the camera matrix or cause the battery to bloat.
Once the metal has warmed up, take the suction cup (if any) and pull the lid upwards, creating a small gap. If there is no suction cup, gently insert the blade of a safety knife or thin spatula into the end, closer to the charging socket, and make a rotational movement to lift the edge.
Once you have a minimum gap, insert a plastic card in there. Don't use metal at this stage so as not to scratch the aluminum frame. Slowly guide the map along the perimeter, cutting the softened glue.
Disabling the plume and removing the back panel
When the perimeter is completely passed and the lid is free from the housing, don't rush it off. Inside, at the bottom of the device, there's a plume connecting the main board to the antenna and modules on the back cover, and a sharp jerking motion is guaranteed to cause it to break.
Carefully lift the bottom of the lid and find the connection of the plume to the motherboard, which can be covered with a metal protective plate, if there is a plate, unscrew the screws that hold it, and remove the metal.
To turn off the plume, use a plastic blade. Put the connector up from the bottom, try not to put too much effort into it. Once the plume is unplugged, the back cover can be completely removed and put back to safety.
- π Check the plume for microcracks after removal.
- π§Ή Remove the remnants of the old glue from the frame of the case and the cover itself.
- π Check the battery status before further manipulation.
Now, access to the main components is open. You can replace the battery, the vibrator or other modules. However, if your goal was only to replace the battery, then further disassembly may not be necessary, since the battery is often attached to double-sided tape to the bottom of the frame.
Surface cleaning and assembly preparation
Successful reassembly and leakproofness of the device are directly dependent on the quality of surface preparation. The aluminum frame and plastic cover inevitably leave the remnants of old glue, dust and pile. If not removed, the new adhesive layer will fall unevenly, and moisture will enter the case.
Use isopropyl alcohol or a special glue cleaner to clean the sleeveless wipe and thoroughly wipe the end of the case around the perimeter. Act carefully so that the liquid does not fall on the speaker or microphone holes.
Pay special attention to the corners of the device. This is where dirt accumulates most often. Use a toothpick or a thin plastic blade to clean out hard-to-reach areas. The surface should be perfectly smooth and fat-free.
β οΈ Attention! Do not use acetone or aggressive solvents to clean plastic.They can change the color of the lid or make the material brittle, which will lead to cracks in the assembly.
Once cleaned, let the surfaces dry completely. Wet adhesives don't provide a reliable fixation. Only after drying completely can you start applying a new adhesive.
Selection and application of new glue
The Redmi 5 Plus back cover cannot be fixed with superglue (cyanacrylate), which crystallizes, becomes brittle, and breaks off pieces of plastic the next time it is repaired, and can leak in and damage components.
The best solution is to use a B-7000 or T-8000 adhesive, which is flexible after drying, allowing the body to reopen without damage if necessary, and also has good adhesion to metal and plastic.
Apply the glue in a thin continuous line onto the metal frame of the case, retreating about 1 mm from the outer edge. Avoid getting glue into the area of cameras, speakers and buttons. A thick layer of glue will be squeezed outwards when assembled, which will spoil the appearance.
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Put the glue on a metal frame, not on a plastic cover, so it's easier to control the amount of glue and avoid it hitting the front of the panel.
After applying the glue, let it dry for 1-2 minutes so that it is no longer liquid, but remains sticky. Then carefully combine the cover with the case, pre-connect the antenna plume.
Fixation and drying time
Once the body parts are connected, you need to ensure that the lid fits evenly around the perimeter, press the edges tightly with your fingers, moving from center to edges to squeeze out excess air bubbles and evenly distribute the adhesive layer.
For a reliable fixation, you'll want to use stationery rubber bands, and you'll need to stretch 3-4 bands across and along the body, and they'll create the pressure you need while the glue is polymerized, and don't pull the bands too hard to deform the display.
The time to fully polymerize the B-7000 glue is about 24 hours, and although the initial grip takes an hour, the glue will gain full strength only after a day, during which time it is better not to use the phone or put it under stress.
| Parameter | Meaning/Recommendation | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Type of glue | B-7000 / T-8000 | It's still elastic. |
| Primary fixation time | 60 minutes. | Under the rubber bands |
| Complete drying | 24 hours. | Full strength set |
| Heating temperature | 80-90 Β°C | To soften the old glue |
Time slots are critical, because if you remove the rubber bands early, the lid can move away in your pocket, and dust or moisture will get inside, and patience at this point ensures that the repairs are durable.
βοΈ Preparation for assembly
Frequent mistakes in self-disassembly
Many users underestimate the complexity of modern smartphones. One of the most common mistakes is trying to open the phone without heating, which leads to the breakdown of plastic latches, which in the Redmi 5 Plus are quite fragile.
Another mistake is using metal tools to pick around the perimeter, and aluminum is soft, and the steel blade leaves deep furrows that can't be hidden, and metal can close contacts on the board if you accidentally touch them.
Ignoring the plume is a fatal mistake, and even experienced craftsmen sometimes forget to unplug the plume before removing the lid completely, leading to the cliffed tracks that require microscopic soldering and professional equipment to repair.
What to do if the plume is broken?
FAQ: Frequently Asked Questions
Can I open Redmi 5 Plus without a hairdryer?
Which glue is better: B-7000 or bilateral scotch?
Do I need to remove the battery before removing the lid?
Why does the phone catch the network poorly after assembly?
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The main secret of success is high-quality heating of the glue and neat disconnection of the plume before completely removing the panel.