Xiaomi Power Bank 3 10000 mAh (model) PLM13ZM) β One of the most popular portable chargers, because of its combination of compactness, capacity and reliability, even though these devices fail over time, the battery inflates, breaks down. USB-In most cases, repairs are possible, but this requires carefully disassembling the body without damaging the internal components.
In this article, you'll find step-by-step instructions with photos, a list of tools you need, and unique warnings about typical errors in disassembling this particular model. We've taken into account all the nuances, from hidden latches to the features of the adhesive joint that are often missed in general manuals. If you've never disassembled electronics, don't worry: the process is simpler than it seems, but requires care.
Preparation for disassembly: tools and security measures
Before you start, make sure you have everything you need. Xiaomi Power Bank 3 10000 is built on latches and glue, so a regular screwdriver will not be enough.
- π§ Plastic mediators or shoulder blades (2-3 (S) to remove the stainless stains.
- π₯ Hair dryer construction or thermo-air station - for softening the glue (temperature 60-80)Β°C).
- π Loop or magnifying glass - so as not to miss small latches.
- π§² Magnetic mat or bowl - for fastening screws and small parts.
- β‘ Multimeter β to check the voltage on the board (optional, but recommended).
β οΈ Warning: If the power bank battery is swelling (the body is deformed), do not heat it with a hair dryer - this can lead to fire.
Also prepare the workspace: the desk should be clean, without metal objects that can close contacts. Put the Power Bank on a soft substrate (for example, a napkin) so as not to scratch the case.
Step 1: Removing the top cover β where the latches are hidden
The Xiaomi Power Bank 3 10000 has two parts, 8 latches and adhesive layer around the perimeter. Start by heating the edge with a hairdryer (hold 5-7 cm away so that the plastic doesn't melt). The temperature should be comfortable for the hand - if the case burns, reduce the heat.
Insert a plastic mediator into the gap between the upper and lower part of the body from the side USB-Keep the tool carefully along the seam, listening to the clicks of the disconnecting latches. Don't force it, because if the lid doesn't lend itself, you miss the latch or the glue doesn't soften.
Make sure the hair dryer warms up the entire perimeter.|Check the mediator for the absence of barbs|Start from the sidelines. USB-port|Do not use metal tools-->
Typical places where the latches break when sloppy disassembly:
- π Corner next to USB-Type C port (there is the most fragile latch).
- π± Opposite angle from charge indicator (often sticking to glue).
If the cover is lifted, but not removed completely, do not pull it by force - most likely, there are unconnected latches at the on button or LED indicator.
Step 2: Unconnecting the plumes and removing the board
After removing the top cover, you will see:
- Battery (black rectangle with the inscription 10000mAh 3.7V).
- Control board (green or brown, with chips).
- The indicator plume (thin white cable going to the LEDs).
First, unplug the indicator plume, which is attached to the board with a connector that you can gently tuck in with the mediator, then unscrew the two screws (usually under the PH00 cross screwdriver) that hold the board, and the screws can be hidden under the stickers -- check them with a magnifying glass.
| Component | Firming | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Indicator plume | The card connector | Donβt pull the wires β pull the connector from the side |
| Management fee | 2 screws + glue | The screws may be under the heat pad. |
| Battery | Glue + contacts | Do not cut contacts with metal tools |
| USB-port | Saled to pay | When repairing ports, a soldering iron is needed 30-40 W |
β οΈ Note: If you are disassembling the power bank due to a faulty USB-First, check the charge for burnt resistors or capacitors (blackened parts) - often the problem lies in them, not in the connector.
Step 3: Removing the battery β how not to damage the contacts
The battery in Xiaomi Power Bank 3 is glued to the case with double-sided tape to remove it:
- Carefully tuck the battery with a plastic spatula on either side.
- If the tape does not respond, warm the case with a hairdryer (do not direct hot air to the battery itself!).
- Disconnect the battery contacts from the board by remembering their polarity (+ and - usually marked on the battery).
β οΈ Warning: If the battery is swelling, do not pierce it or bend it - this can lead to electrolyte leakage or fire.Put the battery in a non-combustible container (for example, a metal can) and dispose of it according to local regulations.
When replacing the battery, choose a model with similar parameters:
- π Capacity: 10,000 mAh (37 Wh).
- π Sizes: 90.5 Γ 60.5 Γ 22.5 mm (taking into account the thickness of the contacts).
- β‘ Tension: 3.7V (lithium-polymer).
π‘
Before buying a new battery, check its thickness with a rod β even a difference of 0.5 mm can interfere with the assembly of the case.
Step 4: Diagnostics of faults β what breaks most often
Xiaomi Power Bank 3 10,000 breaks are divided into three categories:
- Mechanical: π A broken USB-type C or USB-A port (more often broken when the cable is not connected neatly). π₯ Cracks on board due to falls.
- Electrical: β‘ The indication does not work (problem in the plume or chip) TP4056). π Powerbank does not charge/return current (controller or battery is faulty).
- Programmatic: π€ Controller firmware failure (solved by flashing through USB-UART adapter).
For diagnosis, use a multimeter:
- Check the voltage at the battery contacts (should be 3.7-4.2V).
- Call me. USB-Short-circuit ports (resistance between the two) +5V and GND must be infinite).
If the power bank doesnβt turn on, but the battery is working, the problem may be in the fuse (a small black chip next to the battery). USB-ports) or in a protection chip (DW01A). These parts often fail when overloaded.
How to check the DW01A chip?
Step 5: Repairs USB-Ports and boards - soldering work
If the problem is USB-You can replace them yourself in ports:
- Doil the defective port with a soldering iron (power no more than 40 W, so as not to peel the tracks).
- Clean contact areas from soldering with brazing or pine rosifoli.
- Install a new port while observing polarity (the board usually has a marking of +5V, D+, D-, GND).
For USB-Type C port, it is important to:
- π§ Use a port with 24 contacts (in cheap China, there are 16 contacts that will not fit).
- π Check compatibility by height - too high connector will not close the case.
If the resistors or capacitors burned on the board, their denominations can be determined by marking:
- πΊ Resistors: code from 3 figures, for example, 102 = 1 kom).
- π΅ Capacitors: marking 104 = 100 NPF, 225 = 2.2 ΞΌf.
β οΈ Warning: When soldering, do not overheat the board - keep the soldering iron for no longer than 3-5 seconds on one contact. Use water-based flux (for example, use water-based flux, RMA-223), avoid corrosion.
Step 6: Powerbank Assembly β How to Avoid Screaming and Backlashes
Before assembly, follow several important steps:
- Check that all the plumes are connected (especially the indicator).
- Make sure the battery is flat - skewing can lead to deformation of the body.
- Apply a thin layer of B-7000 glue or double-sided tape to the battery attachment locations (do not overdo it, otherwise the case will not close).
When the shell is closed:
- π§ Start at the on-button side - there are the latches the most fragile.
- π Check if there are any creaks β if there is, it means somewhere there was garbage or glue.
- π Make sure everyone USB-ports aligned with holes in the body.
After assembly, connect the power bank to the charging and check:
- π Charge indication (all 4 LEDs should light up, then go out one at a time).
- β‘ Current return function (plug the phone - charge should start).
1. The polarity of the battery connection.
Integrity of the indicator plume.
3.Availability of a short circuit on the board (call the multimeter).-->