Redmi Airdots 2, also known as Redmi Earbuds Basic 2, has become one of the most popular budget solutions in the wireless acoustics market. However, like any portable device, these headphones are subject to wear and tear, and the most common cause of failure is the degradation of the lithium polymer battery. Users often face a situation when the case stops charging the headphones themselves or they quickly discharge, which requires intervention inside the case.
The process of disassembling this device is not simple, since the manufacturer used a monolithic design without visible screws. The entire assembly is based on a tight fit of plastic latches and glue, which requires the craftsman to be accurate and have a special tool. The purpose of this instruction is to open the case as safely as possible to replace the battery or clean the contacts without critical damage to the appearance and functionality.
Before you start dismantling, you need to be clear that any mechanical impact on the case Xiaomi Airdots 2 violates the factory tightness, which means that once opened, the headphones will lose protection from dust and moisture, and there may be barely noticeable gaps between the halves of plastic. If the device is guaranteed, self-repair automatically deprives you of the right to free service.
⚠️ Warning: Opening the case is an irreversible process in most cases, plastic can crack if handled carelessly, and factory latches often break at the first opening.
To do this successfully, you'll need not only a desire to fix the gadget, but also a set of tools, and the quality of the repair depends on how carefully you study the structure before you start work.
In this article, we will take a closer look at each stage of disassembly, from the workplace to post-assembly testing. We will also discuss the typical mistakes that beginners make and how to avoid them. The Redmi Airdots 2 body consists of two main parts, fastened around the perimeter without the use of screws, which requires the use of heating or thin mediators for opening.
It's important to understand that there are sensitive electronic components inside the case, and static electricity or sloppy tweezers can incapacitate the charge control board, so safety and antistatic gloves are not necessarily necessary for a home craftsman.
You can't disassemble electronics properly without the right tools. For Redmi Airdots 2, you'll need a minimal but specific set that allows you to work with miniature parts. Using improvised tools like knives or needles is highly undesirable, because there's a high risk of damage to internal components or scratching plastic.
First of all, prepare the heat source. This can be a temperature-adjusted building hair dryer or, in extreme cases, a normal hair dryer, although you will have to warm longer. You also need a thin metal scalpel or blade, a thin plastic spatula (mediator) and a suction cup for the smartphone screen.
Organize your workspace: the desk should be clean, light and free of unnecessary objects. Cover the surface with white paper or light cloth to help you avoid losing tiny cogs or parts if they accidentally fall out of your hands. Good lighting is critical, because the internal plumes and contacts are very small and easily damaged in poor visibility.
- 🔧 Thin blade or scalpel to cut glue.
- 🔥 A hair dryer or heating panel to soften the adhesive layer.
- 🖐️ Tweezers with thin curved ends for capturing small details.
- 🔌 A soldering iron with a thin sting for working with a battery.
- 💡 Loop or magnifying glass for inspection of small contacts.
Don't forget to keep your device safe from static electricity. Although the risk is not as high as with PC motherboards, it's not worth neglecting. If you have an antistatic bracelet, use it, if not, just periodically touch the grounded metal object before touching the internal components.
Analysis of the design and opening points of the case
Before you pick up the tools, carefully inspect the device. Xiaomi Airdots 2 has a smooth glossy body without any external screws or visible gaps. The design is made on the principle of a sandwich, where two halves of plastic fit tightly together around the perimeter.
The challenge is that the manufacturer uses a combination of plastic latches and glue, the glue is located around the perimeter of the seam, and the latches hold the halves together, the entry points for the blade are at the bottom of the case, where the Micro-USB connector is located, and at the top, near the cover.
The best way to start an autopsy is to start at the bottom of the charging port, and that's where the adhesive layer is often thinner, and the presence of a cable hole creates a natural gap, and carefully insert a thin blade into the plastic joint, and try to make a small incision as you walk along the seam.
Features of the internal structure
Inside the case is a main circuit board with a charge controller, two headphone bays with contact pins and a lithium polymer battery glued to the bottom of the case. The board is attached to screws hidden under plastic elements.> Don't try to force the case to one place - this is guaranteed to cause chips. Move the blade around the perimeter, gradually cutting through the adhesive layer. If the plastic begins to whiten or deform, then you apply too much force and you need to add heat. The table below shows the main design elements you will encounter: Location Function Risk when disassembling the case (Shell) External part Protection of the components of the crack, chipping paint Battery Lower Power Bloating, Puncture Board (PCB) Center Control Pipes Break Contact Pines Headphone Charging, Loss of contact After you have heated the case and started cutting glue around the perimeter, you can move to a more decisive action along the plastic chip, if you do not hear the slap over the card again. Heating makes the plastic more elastic and the glue softer, which makes it much easier. When you pass the entire perimeter, gently lift the top cover. Don't pull sharply! There may be connections or plumes inside that haven't yet been disconnected. In the Airdots 2, the board is usually attached to the bottom, but check if there are connections to the top cover (such as indicators). Pay special attention to the area around the LED light. Often the wire going to the LED is very short and thin. A sharp opening of the case can lead to its break, and then you will have to deal with soldering. SMD-So, after you've successfully split the halves, you'll see the internal layout, and the battery is usually glued to the plastic with double-sided tape, and to extract it, you'll need to gently tuck the edge of the battery with a plastic blade. Metal tools can not be used here - one careless puncture of the lithium battery can cause a fire. 🔥 Heat the body evenly, without holding the hair dryer at one point longer. 5-10 seconds. 🔪 Move the blade parallel to the seam, rather than perpendicularly, so as not to bump into the board. 👐 Use a suction cup to create a gap between the halves of the body. 👀 Watch the thin wires of LEDs carefully when you open. Battery replacement and electronics work The most common reason for disassembly is to replace the battery. 2 It has a standard size and voltage 3.7B, but it may differ in size and type of connector. Before buying a new battery, be sure to measure the dimensions of the old one (length, width, thickness) and look at the type of connector. To dismantle the old battery, first unwrap the wires from the board. They are usually soldered directly to the contact areas. Use a thin stinging iron and a little solder to melt the old compound. Carefully pull the wires aside, trying not to overheat the board itself. Stick the new battery to the old one using double-sided scotch or a drop of glue. B-7000. Polarity is critical: red wire is a plus (+), If you confuse them, you instantly disable the charge controller. ⚠️ Warning: Never use strong heating directly above the battery.Lithium polymer batteries are sensitive to temperatures above 60°C and can ignite. After soldering the wires, check the voltage on the board contacts with a multimeter. It should be in the region of 3.7-4.2 Volts. If there is a voltage, you can start reassembling. Make sure that the wires are not clamped by the case and do not touch the sharp edges of plastic. If you change the battery, it makes sense to clean the contact pins inside the headphone compartments right away. Over time, they oxidize, and the headphones stop charging even with the new battery. Wipe them with a cotton swab dipped in isopropyl alcohol. The assembly is reversed and checked. First, make sure that all the internal components fall into place, the wires are laid in the channels intended for them and nothing hangs. The halves of the body should converge effortlessly, with the characteristic snap of latches. If you cut off some of the plastic or the latches break, you'll have to use glue. B-7000 Or a perimeter-like joint, avoid getting glue inside, onto a dynamic membrane or contacts, squeeze the case and lock it with money bands or stationery clips on it. 1-2 hour. After the glue is dry, wipe the case with a soft cloth to remove the residue of the adhesive. Connect the case to the charger. The indicator should catch fire (usually red when charging and white/off when fully charging). Put the headphones in the case - they should start charging. Check the Bluetooth module. Connect your headphones to your smartphone and play audio. The sound should be clean, without wheezing or interrupting. If it works, congratulations, you've done a good repair. 🧹 Carefully clean all surfaces of old glue before gluing. 🧪 Use glue that remains elastic after drying (B-7000, T-7000). ⏳ Let the glue dry at least. 2-3 hour before active operation. 🔋 Check the battery voltage before final assembly.Frequent problems and troubleshooting Even with a careful disassembly, difficulties can arise. One of the common problems is that the headphones don't see the case or charge. This could mean that you've damaged LED wiring or soldered the battery wrong. Check the integrity of all the connections. Another problem is that the case warms up when charging. This is a sign of short circuit or mispolarity. Immediately disconnect the device from the network and recheck the connection circuit. Overheating is dangerous not only for electronics, but also for the user. If after assembly, you lost the sound in one of the channels, perhaps you damaged the plume speaker inside the headphone (if you disassembled them and they were) or violated the contact with the company, you can only use the FMS, but the Xiam in the case, you can not damage the case of the phone in the case, you can only to the Xiamo, the Xia, but the Xia, you can not be in the case of the contact with the age, but the Xia, if you can not be used in the case of the phone, if you can not to remove the phone, if you can be the Xia, the phone, the phone, the Xia, the The glue is very hard without heating, and the plastic can crack under the pressure of the tool. The dryer makes it much easier. Which battery is better to choose for replacement? Look for a lithium-polymer battery with a voltage of 3.7V. The dimensions are important (must fit into the compartment) and the presence of a protective board (PCM) on the battery itself. The capacity is desirable to choose a close to the original (usually 300-400 mAh). What to do if a plastic latch breaks? One broken latch is not critical if the rest of the perimeter is well broken and the case is well broken, if the controller is damaged from the inside, if the board, you will have to charge from the board, then you will have to use a lot of the plate, or if the battery after you have to charge from the inside. Should the new battery be completely discharged before charging? Modern lithium polymer batteries do not have the memory effect. However, to calibrate the charge controller in the case, it is recommended to discharge the device to zero once and then charge to 100% without interruption.