Disassembly of the front wheel of the Xiaomi electric scooter: tools, procedure and typical errors

Why would you need to take the wheel apart?

The front wheel of the Xiaomi scooter is one of the most loaded components that requires periodic maintenance. Unlike the rear wheel, it not only rotates, but also carries the weight of the battery, steering column and part of the load from the weight of the rider. Over time, problems can arise here, from banal wear of rubber to serious malfunctions of bearings or electric motor.

Among the most common reasons for disassembly are:

• 🔧 Replacement of tires - punctures, scuffs or the desire to install tubeless rubber.
• 🌀 Cleaning or replacing bearings – the appearance of backlash, creaking or uneven rotation.
• ⚡ Diagnosis of the motor-wheel - loss of power, jerks during acceleration or complete failure.
• 🔌 Wiring repairs – cable breaks inside the hub or contact oxidation.

It is important to understand that the design of the front wheel on Xiaomi models M365, Pro 2, 1S, Essential and Pro 3 It's almost identical, but there are some nuances about the brake disc mounting and the type of bearings. 3 more durable 6004-2RS instead 6003-2RS, If you're not sure about your scooter model, check the sticker on the steering column or the Mi Home mobile app.

Preparation: security tools and measures

Disassembling a wheel is a process that requires not only accuracy, but also the right tool, and without it, you risk damaging the rim, the brake rotor, or the wiring of the motor.

Before starting work, be sure to disconnect the scooter from charging and wait for the full discharge of the capacitors in the controller (10-15 minutes), this will prevent accidental short circuit when disconnecting the motor wires.

• 📦 Work on a flat surface covered with cardboard or cloth so as not to scratch the body.
• 📸 Take a picture of the original position of all parts and wires – this will simplify the reverse assembly.
• 🧲 Use a magnetic screw pallet to avoid losing small parts.

⚠️ Note: If your scooter has a system installed KERS (regenerative braking, before disassembling the wheel, be sure to turn it off in the settings of the Mi Home application. Otherwise, when the wheel is rotated manually, a voltage pulse may occur, which can damage the controller.

Step 1: Removing the wheel from the scooter fork

The first step is to remove the wheel from the frame, and the main thing is not to damage the brake disc (if you have one) and not to confuse the order of unscrewing the nuts.

1. Turn the scooter upside down, steering the wheel to the floor, so you can put a book or a bar under the pedals to be stable.
2. Unscrew the counternut on the wheel axis with the end key. M365/1S it's a nut. M14 with left thread (unfolds clockwise!), on the Pro 2/3 — standard-cut.
3. Remove the puck and carefully pull the axis out of the slots of the fork. If the axis does not come out, lightly tap it with a hammer through the wooden shed.
4. Disconnect the motor power connector from the controller. It is usually located under the platform and marked with a blue or red shrink tube.

At this point, many people are faced with the problem of a stiff axis, and if the wheel doesn't come off even after the nuts are unscrewed, don't put too much effort into it, it can bend the fork.

• 🔧 Apply penetrating lubricant (for example, WD-40) on the axis and wait 10-15 minutes.
• 🔨 Carefully tap on the axis through a soft spacer to break down corrosion.
• 🌀 Swing the wheel from side to side, gradually increasing the amplitude.

Is the scooter off-charging?|Is the position of the wires photographed?|Is there a place for screws and small parts?|Checked axle thread (left/right)?-->

Step 2: Disassembly of the hub and access to bearings

Once the wheel is removed from the fork, you have to disassemble the hub itself to get to the bearings or the motor, and there are two design options.

• 🔄 Collapsible hub (M365, 1S) — lids are mounted on latches or screws.
• 🔒 Unshallable hub (some Pro 2) - requires a careful opening with the risk of damage to the body.

For models with collapsible hub:

1. Remove the protective covers on either side of the wheel, which can be mounted on plastic latches (plug in with a screwdriver) or on screws. T10.
2. Unscrew the locking ring of the bearing with a round-trigger or a special detacher. Some models use a nut instead of a ring. M24.
3. Carefully knock the bearing out of the seat with a mandrel (you can use an old bearing or a tube of the appropriate diameter).

For non-collectible hubs, the process is more complicated:

⚠️ Note: If your hub is covered with compounds (as on some Pro 2s), trying to open it will cause permanent damage to the body, in which case the only option is to replace the assembled wheel or contact the service for professional disassembly with heating.

When you extract bearings, pay attention to their marking. M365 and 1S usually 6003-2RS (diameter 17 mm, and on the Pro 2/3 — 6004-2RS (diameter 20 Installing the bearing of the wrong size will result in backlash or jamming of the wheel.

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If the bearing "stick" to the axis, heat the hub with a construction hairdryer (not higher than 80).°C) to expand the metal and facilitate dismantling.

Step 3: Diagnostics and replacement of bearings

Bearings are the most vulnerable part of the wheel, and their life depends on the style of the ride, the weight of the rider and the operating conditions.

• 🔊 Crunch or creak when the wheel is rotated.
• 🌀 Luft – the wheel “dangles” when swaying from side to side.
• 🛑 Uneven rotation – the wheel brakes or “grabbs” in certain areas.

To check the bearing:

1. Wash it in kerosene or WD-40, grease.
2. Scroll through the inner ring - it should rotate smoothly, without jamming.
3. Check for rust, chips or production on the balls.

If the bearing is defective, it must be replaced. When choosing a new one, note:

When installing new bearings:

• 🛠️ Use a mandrel (old tube or head of suitable diameter) to evenly press the bearing.
• 🧴 Apply a thin layer of lithium lubricant to the landing spot in the hub.
• 🔧 Tighten the locking ring with a force of 20-25 N·m (use a dynamometer key).

Step 4: Disassembly of the motor-wheel (if necessary)

If the problem lies in the motor itself (loss of power, jerks, lack of reaction to gas), it will require disassembly. This is a more complicated procedure than replacing bearings, and requires caution - inside the hub are magnets and windings that are easily damaged.

Procedure:

1. Remove the rotor (the outer part of the magnet motor) and it is attached to the stator with three screws. T10 or T15, They're often sealed or compounded, and they may need to be heated by a hairdryer to unscrew them.
2. Disconnect the phase wires from the stator winding. They are usually soldered to the contact area and marked with color shrinkage (red, blue, yellow). Do not confuse the order of connection - improper phasing will lead to the wheel back rotation!
3. Check the integrity of the winding with a multimeter in the vertebrae mode. The resistance between phases should be in the range of 0.2-0.5 Ohms. If the device shows a cliff or KZ, rewind or replace the engine is required.

Typical engine failures:

• 🧲 Demagnetization of the rotor - occurs when overheating (for example, after a long ride uphill.
• 🔥 The headlight of the winding, which occurs when moisture is injected or short circuited, is visible from the blackened insulation and the smell of burning.
• 🔌 Phasic wire breaks, often at the base of the axis, checked by the vertebra from connector to winding.

⚠️ Warning: If you find damage to the winding (blackening, melting), do not try to repair the engine yourself. Rewinding requires special equipment and skills.

Step 5: Wheel assembly and scooter installation

The assembly is carried out in reverse order, but taking into account several critical points:

1. Before installing bearings, apply lubrication for high-speed units (for example, Molykote) to them. 3400A). Do not use solidol or litol – they are not designed for such loads.
2. When installing the axle, make sure that the brake disc (if any) is fixed between the washers without distortion. Otherwise, when braking, the wheel will beat.
3. Tighten the counternut of the axis with a force of 40–50 N·m. A short nut will lead to backlash, pulled – to deformation of bearings.
4. Connect the motor connector to the controller, observing polarity. Most Xiaomi models use a connector. JST-XH 3-pin, where the red wire is phase A, the blue wire is phase B, and the yellow wire is phase C.

After assembly, it is mandatory:

• 🔄 Scroll the wheel manually - it should rotate smoothly, without jamming.
• 🛑 Check the brake (if installed) the disc should not rub against the pads.
• ⚡ Turn on the scooter and test the engine at minimum speed.

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The most common mistake in assembly is the wrong installation of the bearing locking ring. If it gets curved, the wheel will "eight" when it spins, which will lead to beating and rapid wear of the rubber.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

Even experienced craftsmen sometimes make mistakes when disassembling Xiaomi wheels, and here are the most common ones and ways to prevent them:

Pay special attention to the tightness of the hub after assembly, if moisture enters the wheel, it will lead to corrosion of the bearings and winding. 2/3 For sealing, rubber gaskets are used, which eventually tan, and when disassembling, check them for cracks and replace them if necessary.

Another nuance is the balancing of the wheel, and after replacing the rubber or bearings, a beat may appear, especially noticeable at speeds above 25 km / h.

• 🔧 Check the uniformity of the spokes tightening (if the wheel is spokes).
• 🌀 Roll the scooter on a flat surface and visually assess the beat.
• 📊 If necessary, use balancing loads (as on car wheels).

FAQ: Frequent questions about the dismantling of the Xiaomi wheel