Owners of a popular lineup TWS-Headsets from Xiaomi and Redmi often face the need for internal intervention in the device. Whether it is moisture, reducing the volume due to contamination of the grid or failure of the battery, self-repair can be the only cost-effective solution. However, the design of modern "plugs" implies a monolithic assembly, which makes the disassembly process difficult and risky.
Before you start dismantling, you need to realize that opening the case is almost guaranteed to lead to loss of factory sealing. You will need special tools, thin plastic blades and, preferably, a heating element to soften the glue. Wrong actions can damage the plumes or the speaker itself, turning a small defect into a complete non-repairability of the gadget.
In this article, we will take a detailed look at the action algorithm for AirDots, Redmi Buds and their counterparts, learn how to safely unstick external elements, which screws can hide under stickers, and how to avoid damaging fragile contacts when assembled back. Carefully study each step to minimize the risks of damage to electronics.
Preparation of the workplace and necessary tools
The success of any electronic repair operation depends 80 percent on proper preparation. You don't need bulky equipment, but a set of specific tools is a must. Standard household scissors or rough screwdrivers won't work here, they'll just mess up the plastic of the case.
The main enemy in disassembly is static electricity and accidental scratches. The work surface should be clean, well-lit and preferably covered with an antistatic mat or at least just a sheet of white paper, on which all the small cogs will be visible.
- 🛠️ Precision screwdrivers (cross-hatched) PH000, PH00 and flat) for opening the internal screws.
- 🔥 A hair dryer or heating plate for careful heating of the adhesive layer without overheating the battery.
- 🔪 Thin blade or scalpel to cut glue seams (use with extreme caution).
- 🧲 Magnetic mat or tank for sorting screws of different sizes, so as not to confuse them when assembling.
Pay special attention to the choice of mediators or plastic blades. Metal tools can easily crack glossy plastic or damage the internal wiring. Plastic tools are preferable, since they are flexible and do not conduct current.
Initial inspection and identification of anchorage points
Visual analysis of the headphone case is a critical step that many people ignore when they start picking at random. Redmi AirDots and similar designs usually don't have visible screws on the outside. All the mounts are hidden under decorative elements or silicone embroideries.
First, remove the silicone nozzle (ambushyure). Under it often hides a speaker mesh, but sometimes there can be screw hats, although in low-end Xiaomi models this is rare. Carefully examine the inside of the bowl that is inserted into the ear.
⚠️ Warning: Never try to fit the body behind the speaker's mesh with a metal needle. The speaker membrane is just behind the mesh, and one wrong move will pierce it, leading to wheezing and loss of bass effect.
The main method of attachment in these devices is a plastic latch combined with a glue seam around the perimeter of the junction of the halves of the body. Sometimes the screw hides under the brand logo or under a layer of paint. Check for holes with a thin probe.
If you find hidden screws under the stickers, they must be unscrewed before heating begins. Attempting to paste the case with the screws twisted will lead to breakage of plastic ears or the failure of the thread.
The process of opening the body: heating and separation of halves
The most difficult step is to uncouple the main body, and the glue used by electronics manufacturers (usually B-7000 or similar polymer) holds very tight at room temperature, and it needs to be softened.
Use a dryer at medium temperature. Heat the body joint evenly for 1-2 minutes. Don't hold the hair dryer at one point for too long to not melt the plastic or damage the lithium polymer battery inside. The plastic should become warm but not hot to the touch.
After warming up, insert a thin plastic card or mediator into the seam. Start running the tool along the junction, turning it slightly, you hear the characteristic crackling of the adhesive coming off, move slowly without making sharp jerks.
- 🔥 Heat the perimeter of the joint with a hair dryer to temperature 60-70 degree 90 seconds.
- 🗡️ Carefully insert the mediator into the seam from the side opposite to the speaker grid.
- 🔄 Lead the instrument in a circle, gradually increasing the gap between the halves.
- 👐 Separate the body with your hands when the glue stops resisting, trying not to stretch the internal plumes.
A sharp opening of the body is guaranteed to lead to the separation of the contacts of the speaker or control button.
Internal device and battery access
When you remove the outer lid, you'll see the device's filling. Most Xiaomi Redmi models have the main control and battery in the lower leg or in the extended part of the bowl, and the speaker is usually attached separately.
The battery in these devices is a small package like Li-Po, which can be glued to the body or simply inserted into the compartment, and it often requires the latching plastic to be bent away or gently coated with a plastic blade.
The table below shows the main components you will find inside and their functions:
| Component | Location. | Function | Risks in dismantling |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dynamic driver | In the bowl, under the net | Sound reproduction | Thin wires broken, membrane puncture. |
| Li-Po battery | In a leg or body | Powering the device | Puncture (fire), separation of contacts |
| Management fee (PCB) | Central part | Signal processing, Bluetooth | Static leap, breakage SMD-element |
| Microphone | On the end or plume | Voice recording, noise cancellation | The snatching of the plume in sloppy movement |
When working with the battery, be very careful. Lithium polymer batteries can instantly ignite or smoke if the battery is swelled, remove it in a ventilated room and dispose of it according to safety regulations.
If your goal is to replace the battery, make sure the new one has the same dimensions and voltage (usually 3.7V) and soldering contacts should be done quickly so as not to overheat the cell with a soldering iron.
How to check the integrity of the battery multimeter?
Cleaning dynamic grid and eliminating quiet sound
One of the most common reasons for resorting to disassembly is the quiet sound or the complete absence of it in one of the channels, and often the problem lies not in the electronics, but in the banal contamination of the mesh with earwax and dust.
To clean, you don't have to remove the speaker from the body completely. You just have to access the outside of the speaker. Use a soft toothbrush soaked in isopropyl alcohol (not water!).
- 💧 Moisten the brush with isopropyl alcohol and squeeze slightly.
- 🧼 Carefully walk the brush on the grid speaker circular movements.
- 💨 Blow the net with compressed air or blow heavily on the back side (if possible).
- 👂 Allow the alcohol to dry completely before connecting the power supply and testing.
Alcohol is a great dissolution of fatty pollution and quickly evaporates without leaving traces, water can oxidize contacts and drive dirt deeper into the membrane, and after cleaning, the sound should become much cleaner and louder.
If the cleaning didn't work, maybe the dynamic driver itself burned or the contact broke away, and you'd need a multimeter vertebra, and the resistance of a working speaker is usually 16-32 Ohms.
☑️ Checklist before assembly
Assembly of the device and restoration of leakage
Reverse assembly is a neat process, and the main task is to stack all the wires so that they don't get screwed or clamped with plastic, and any compression of the wire can cause the contact to break after a week of use.
The old adhesive layer should be removed completely. To re-seal, use a special electronics glue (e.g., B-7000) or thin strips of bilateral electronics tape. Apply a thin strip of glue around the perimeter, avoiding hitting the dynamic membrane.
⚠️ Warning: Do not use superglue (cyanacrylate) which crystallizes over time, becomes brittle and can damage plastic or get inside the speaker, spoiling the sound forever.
Put the halves of the body together and hold them tightly together. 15-20 It takes about a minute before the glue is first grasped. 24 You can use the headphones in an hour.
After assembly, be sure to check the touch buttons and microphone, sometimes after disassembly, it takes calibration or just time for the contacts to "grow erased".
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Use paint tape to fix the plumes during soldering or assembly – this will free your hands and prevent accidental displacement of components.
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Quality assembly is more important than speed: it is better to spend an extra 10 minutes laying wires than to reassemble the device because of a broken microphone.
Possible malfunctions and methods of their diagnosis
Even after a successful disassembly, you may find that the headphone is not working, which may be due to contact oxidation, which is common after moisture is injected, and visually inspect the board for white or greenish plaque.
If the headphone is not on, check the voltage on the battery contacts. If the board is not responding to charging, the charge controller or the port itself may have failed (if it is wired). In wireless models, the oxidation of the charging contact pens is a common problem.
Use a toothbrush and alcohol to clean the oxides. In more complex cases, replacement of components may be required, which already requires soldering skills. SMD-elements and the presence of a thermo-air station.