Why you might need to disassemble an AirDots case โ and when you shouldnโt
Xiaomi AirDotsโ wireless headphone charger case (including Redmi AirDots, Mi True Wireless Earbuds and their modifications) is not only a stylish storage but also a complex electronic device, with a battery, charging board, headphone contacts and indicators hidden inside it. However, the manufacturer does not provide for official disassembly: the body is glued, and screws (if any) are often hidden under stickers or rubber plugs.
The reasons for disassembling the case can vary from replacing a bloated battery to cleaning oxidized contacts or even modding (for example, installing a more capacious battery). But it is important to understand that disassembling an AirDots case automatically deprives you of Xiaomi warranties, and improper actions can lead to a short circuit or breakage of the charging controller. If the headphones stop charging, first check for simpler causes: contamination of contacts, damaged USB-C cable or a malfunctioning socket.
In this article, we will tell you how to disassemble the AirDots case with minimal risk, what tools you will need, and what to do if something goes wrong. And if you are in doubt, you should contact a service center, especially for models with contactless charging (for example, Xiaomi AirDots Pro 2), where the control fee is more difficult and the risk of damage is higher.
What AirDots Models Can Be Disassembled โ and How They Differ
Xiaomi has released several generations of wireless headphones under the Mi, Redmi and Poco brands, and the design of their cases is different.
| Model | Type of hull attachment | Type of battery | Difficulty disassembling | Features |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Redmi AirDots (1st generation) | Glue + latches | Lithium polymer, 300 mAh | Medium | No screws, body glued around the perimeter |
| Xiaomi Mi True Wireless Earbuds Basic 2 | Screws under the sticker + glue | Lithium-polymer, 300-400 mAh | Tall. | Thin case, risk of damage to the board during the opening |
| Xiaomi AirDots Pro 2 / Pro 2s | Screws + latches + glue | Lithium-polymer, 500 mAh | Very high. | Additional wireless charging charges |
| Poco Pop Buds | Latches + glue | Lithium polymer, 300 mAh | Low. | Simpler mechanism, but fragile plastic |
If your model is not listed in the table, be guided by the year of release: cases of 2019-2020 (for example, Redmi AirDots S) are usually easier to disassemble than modern AirDots 3 Pro with a fast charging system โ USB-C, What affects the location of the board inside the case.
โ ๏ธ Note: In cases with support for wireless charging (Qi-standard), the board is located closer to the top cover. When disassembling such models, you can not use metal tools - they can damage the inductory coil.
Preparation for disassembly: tools and security measures
Before you start, gather everything you need. Here's the minimum set of tools:
- ๐ง Plastic mediators or shoulder blades (to separate the body without scratches).
- ๐จ Screwdriver. T3โT5 (for screws, if any).
- ๐งฒ Magnetic substrate or bowl (to avoid losing small details).
- ๐ฅ Hair dryer or thermo-air station (for softening glue).
- ๐งด Isopropyl alcohol (90%+) (Cleaning contacts and removing glue residues).
- ๐ธ Smartphone with camera (to photograph the process in case of reverse assembly).
Also, prepare your workspace: it should be well lit, clean and free of static electricity (ideally an antistatic mat). If you plan to solder (for example, replace the battery), you will need a soldering iron with a thin sting (20-30 watts) and solder with flux.
โ๏ธ Checklist before disassembly
โ ๏ธ Attention: If the case battery is swelling (the case has become convex or hard to close), do not use a dryer - heating can lead to fire! In this case, immediately remove the battery and dispose of it according to the rules (do not throw it in ordinary garbage!).
Step-by-step: how to disassemble the AirDots case without damage
The disassembly process can be divided into 3 stages: opening the case, removing the board and battery, reverse assembly. We will consider a universal method suitable for most models. If your case has screws, start by unscrewing them (they can be hidden under a sticker or rubber legs).
Step 1: Separation of upper and lower parts of the body
1. Take a plastic mediator and gently insert it into the gap between the top and bottom of the case. Start at the corner where there is no USB-C/Micro-USB connector.
2. Smoothly guide the mediator around the perimeter, swaying it slightly from side to side. If the body does not respond, slightly heat it with a hair dryer (temperature not higher than 60-70 ยฐ C).
3. As soon as the latches begin to snap, do not pull parts of the body to the sides - wires may be soldered inside!
Step 2: Unconnect the battery and board
1. After opening, you will see a battery (usually glued to the bottom) and a board with headphone contacts. Carefully disconnect the plume connecting the battery to the board (it can be soldered or connected through a connector).
2 If the battery is glued, put a plastic spatula on it. Do not use metal tools - the risk of puncture of the battery is high!
3.The fee is usually mounted on screws or double-sided scotch. unscrew the screws (if any) and gently remove the fee without touching the contacts with your hands.
What to do if the fee is not disconnected?
Step 3: Reverse Assembly
1. Before assembly, clean all contacts with alcohol and let them dry.
2. Set the charge in place, connect the battery plume (if disconnected).
3. Close the case, starting from the side of the USB-C connector, and gently snap all the clips. If the case wobbles, you can glue it a little around the perimeter with double-sided tape (not super glue!).
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If the case doesn't charge after assembly, check to see if the contacts on the board are buckled, and sometimes they shift when the installation is not neat.
Typical Disassembly Problems and How to Avoid Them
Even with care, you can have difficulties. Here are the most common ones:
- ๐ The fee is not answered after assembly โ check if you have closed contacts (for example, dust or hair hit).
- ๐ Battery does not hold charge โ possibly damaged charging controller (replacement of board needed).
- ๐ The indicator is burning, but the headphones do not charge - clean the contacts for headphones with alcohol.
- ๐ฅ Case warms or smells of burn - turn it off immediately! it's a sign of short circuit.
If after disassembly the case stopped turning on, check:
- Integrity of battery plume (whether it is severed).
- Correctness of connection of the board (whether connectors are not confused).
- The presence of damage on the board itself (blackened elements, bloated capacitors).
โ ๏ธ Note: If you accidentally close your contacts + and on a battery (e.g., metal tweezers), it can swell or catch fire within minutes, in which case, immediately take the case outside and do not breathe in vapors!
Replacement of the battery in the case AirDots: the choice of battery and soldering
The battery is the most common reason for disassembling a case. Over time, its capacity drops, and instead of the declared 3-4 cycles of charging headphones, you get 1-2. Replacing the battery is a task of medium complexity, but requires accuracy.
Which battery to choose?
The original batteries for AirDots are difficult to find, but you can find analogues.
- ๐ Size - should fit exactly into the compartment (usually) 30ร20ร3 mm for most models).
- โก Capacity โ do not take more than the original (for example, if it was 300 mAh, do not put 500 mAh โ the fee may not cope with charging).
- ๐ Type of connector - most often it JST 1.0 or soldered wires.
Suitable analogues:
- ๐ AKKU A302020 (300 mAh, for Redmi AirDots).
- ๐ Battery LP302030 (400mAh for Mi True Wireless Earbuds Basic 2).
- ๐ ZOP Power 303030 (500 mAh) for AirDots Pro 2).
How do you solder a new battery?
1. Solder off the old battery, heating the contacts with a soldering iron no longer than 2-3 seconds (so as not to overheat the fee).
2. Clean the contacts on the new battery and solder it, observing the polarity (red = +, black = -).
3. fasten the battery on bilateral tape (do not use glue - it can damage the body!).
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If you've never soldered before, practice on an unnecessary fee. Mistakes in soldering the battery can disable the entire case!
Cleaning contacts and restoring headphone charging
If the case is charging, but the headphones are not, the problem is often oxidized contacts or contamination of the connectors.
- Wet the cotton swab in isopropyl alcohol and gently wipe the contacts in the case and on the headphones themselves.
- For persistent contaminants, use an eraser (carefully rub their contacts, then remove the crumbs with a brush).
- Check if the spring contacts in the case are bent - if so, bend them gently with tweezers.
If the headphones are not charged after cleaning:
- ๐ Check if the charging indicator on the case is lit when connecting headphones.
- ๐ Try another cable or power supply (sometimes the problem is not enough charging power).
- ๐ฑ Reset the headphones to factory settings (usually done by holding the button on the case for 10-15 seconds).