The Xiaomi Redmi Note 9 Pro is one of the most popular mid-range smartphones, but its glass back is vulnerable to cracks and chips. If your device has experienced a fall or simply lost its presentable appearance, replacing the lid can restore its former gloss. However, this procedure requires care: fragile plumes, sensors and adhesive base are hidden inside the case, which is easy to damage.
In this article, we will discuss the step-by-step process of replacing the back cover, taking into account the design features of the Redmi Note 9 Pro (models M2003J6A1G, M2003J6B1G and the like). You will learn what tools you need, how to properly disconnect the old panel without damage, and what hidden traps await beginners when working with adhesive and plumes of fingerprint.
Training: tools and materials
Before you start disassembling, make sure you have everything you need, and if you don't have at least one tool, you can damage the body or the internal components, and here's the full list:
- π§ Plastic mediators/scapula (2-3 pc, thickness 0.1β0.2 mm) - for the lid to be carefully slapped.
- π₯ Dryer or thermo-air station (power of at least 800 W) - for softening the glue.
- π§² Suction cup (diameter 5-7 cm) - will help to separate the cover after heating.
- βοΈ Screwdriver. T3 and T5 β screw-off.
- π§΄ Isopropyl alcohol (90%+) β glue-cleaner.
- π¦ New back cover (original or high-quality replica with metal frame).
- π¨ Double-sided tape or glue B-7000 β fixing.
- π Loop or magnifying glass - to check the contacts of plumes.
Note that if you buy a non-original cover, choose models with a metal frame inside (it protects antenna circuits), cheap plastic replicas without a frame degrade network signal and Wi-Fi.
β οΈ Warning: Do not use metal blades or knives to lid! they scratch the aluminum frame and can damage the plume of the fingerprint scanner that runs under the glass.
Step 1: Reheating and removing the old cover
The glue that glues the Redmi Note 9 Pro back panel softens at 60β80Β°C. Overheating above 90Β°C can damage the battery or display, so it is important to monitor the process:
- Turn off your smartphone and remove it. SIM-map.
- Warm the back cover in a circle, holding it at a distance of 3-5 cm for 2-3 minutes. Pay special attention to the edges.
- Suck the suction cup to the top of the lid (near the camera) and pull it up. If the lid doesn't lend itself, repeat the heat.
- Put a plastic mediator in the gap and carefully drive it along the edge, separating the glue. Don't push too hard, there are plumes under the lid!
The most problematic areas:
- π± The bottom part - here is the charging plume (USB-Type C).
- π Top left corner next to the fingerprint scanner.
βοΈ Checklist before lid removal
β οΈ Warning: If the lid is cracked, heating can cause it to split, in which case start squishing from a whole corner, and seal the cracks with tape before heating.
Step 2: Disconnect the plumes and battery
Once you remove the lid, you'll see the insides of the smartphone, and the first thing you need to do is turn off the battery to avoid short circuits.
- Unscrew 5 T3 screws fixing the metal plate over the battery.
- Carefully slap the plate and put it aside.
- Disconnect the battery connector (it is located at the bottom of the board, Marked BAT). Use a plastic blade to avoid bending the contacts.
Now you can disconnect the other plumes:
- πΈ Camera plume (top of board, connector) CAM).
- π Fingerprint scanner plume (thin, runs under the lid on the left).
- π Dynamic plume (lower right corner).
If you do not plan to replace other components, the plumes can not be disconnected completely - it is enough to carefully pull the lid to the side without stretching them.
What happens if you don't turn off the battery?
| schleife | Location. | Risk of damage |
|---|---|---|
| Battery | The bottom of the board, the BAT connector. | Short circuit, failure of the power controller |
| Fingerprint scanner | Left edge, under the lid. | A broken sensor or false alarms |
| Main camera. | Top of the board, CAM connector | Artifacts in the photo, initialization error |
| Charging connector | Lower edge, under a metal plate | Problems with charging or transferring data |
Step 3: Removing old glue and surface preparation
The residues of glue on the smartphone frame and the new cover can worsen the leakage and lead to creaking.
- Soak the cotton-coated disc in isopropyl alcohol and wipe the aluminum frame. Don't use acetone, it's corroding the antenna tracks!
- Remove large pieces of glue with a plastic spatula. Small fibers can be rolled with your finger (they stick like gum).
- Check that there is no glue left in the screw holes - it can interfere with the tight fit of the cover.
For the new cover:
- π§Ό If it is covered with a protective film, remove it after installation - so you will avoid dust under the glue.
- π Check if the camera, microphone and speaker holes match, and cheap replicas can be shifted by 1-2mm.
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If the glue doesn't go well, put your smartphone under a lamp for 5 to 10 minutes, and the heat will make it more malleable. But don't overheat: temperatures above 50.Β°C can deform plastic parts.
Step 4: Installation of a new cover and sealing
The main thing here is uniform gluing without bubbles. We recommend using 3M double-sided tape (0.2 mm thick) or B-7000 glue:
Option 1: Double-sided Scotch
- Stick tape around the frame, avoiding places with plumes (especially near the fingerprint scanner).
- Remove the protective layer and gently apply the cover, starting from the top (from the camera side).
- Press the lid on the edges, then roll with the roller for even gluing.
Option 2: B-7000 glue
- Apply the glue thinly on the frame (not the lid!) Avoid hitting the connectors.
- Apply the lid and fix it with tape for 10-15 minutes until the glue is grasped.
- Check that there are no gaps between the lid and the frame - this is a sign of uneven gluing.
After installation:
- β³ Let the glue dry 1-2 hours before turning on the smartphone.
- π Donβt plug in charging in the first 30 minutes β heating can weaken glue.
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Using double-sided tape makes it easier, but the B-7000 glue provides better sealability and dust protection, depending on your priorities: speed or reliability.
Step 5: Assembly and Performance Check
After gluing the cover, it remains to collect the smartphone in reverse order:
- Connect all the plumes (start with the battery, then the camera, fingerprint scanner, speaker).
- Fix the metal plate over the battery and twist the T3 screws.
- Make sure all connectors are firmly settled - backlash can lead to poor contact.
Before final assembly, be sure to check:
- πΆ Network signal and Wi-Fi β if it deteriorated, cover without metal frame.
- π Fingerprint scanner β should be triggered with the first touch.
- π Charging β connect the cable and make sure the smartphone recognizes it.
- πΈ Camera β Take a test shot for artifacts.
β οΈ Warning: If the smartphone doesn't turn on after assembly, check if the battery plume is connected. A common mistake is to forget to twist the screws of the metal plate, which causes the contacts to depart.
Frequent Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
Even experienced craftsmen sometimes make mistakes when replacing the cover of the Redmi Note 9 Pro.
- π§ The fingerprint scanner plume is damaged by rough undercutting. Solution: Use thin mediators and heat the lid to 70.Β°C.
- πΆ The bad signal from the network is that the lid is not metal-framed. Solution: just buy framed replicas or the original.
- π₯ Short circuit -- if you forgot to turn off the battery. Solution: always start by disconnecting the battery!
- π Crunch speaker - the lid is pressing on it because of the wrong installation. Solution: check the gap between the lid and the frame.
If the lid is replaced, the smartphone is starting to overheat, you've probably covered the vents with glue, and then you'll have to re-disassemble and clean them.
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Before buying a cover, check its compatibility with your modification Redmi Note 9 Pro. For example, for the version M2003J6A1G (global) and M2003J6B1G (Indian) may differ microphone holes.