How to disassemble the Xiaomi 4A router: step-by-step instructions

Many users are faced with the need to access the insides of their router, whether to install additional cooling or replace antennas. Xiaomi 4A router is one of the most popular budget devices, and its disassembly is often the first step to deep customization. Unlike smartphones, there are no perimeter glue seams, but there are tricks that will save the case from damage.

The main difficulty lies in the hidden screws that the manufacturer prudently hid under decorative elements and legs. Xiaomi Mi Router 4A is designed to look aesthetically pleasing, so all the fasteners are masked. If you plan to modify the hardware or just clean the device from dust, you will need accuracy and the right set of tools. Improper handling of plastic latches can lead to cracks on the body that will spoil the appearance of the gadget.

In this guide, we will take a closer look at the process of dismantling the case, get to the PCB and discuss important nuances that are not covered in the official documentation. The Gigabit Edition and the regular 100M have the same body, but differ in the location of the radiators on the board. Follow the instructions carefully to avoid breaking plastic locks.

Preparation of the workplace and tools

Before you start physically interfering with the device, you need to organize a safe space. You need a clean, well-lit table so that small cogs do not get lost among the debris. Static electricity can be destructive to electronics, so it is recommended to use an antistatic mat or just periodically touch a grounded metal object.

The toolkit should be minimal, but quality. Cheap metal blades can scratch glossy plastic, and poor-quality screwdrivers can tear the screws. For work with Xiaomi routers, a basic set is usually enough.

• 🔧 Phillips type screwdriver (cross) size PH0 or PH1 screw-up.
• 🛠️ Thin plastic blade or mediator to open the body without damage.
• 🧲 Magnetic tray or container with sections for sorting fasteners.
• 🔦 Lantern for illuminating the inner corners of the body during assembly.

⚠️ Warning: Never use metal knives or screwdrivers to slap the lid – this is guaranteed to leave deep scratches on the glossy surface and can damage the internal plumes.

Make sure the device is completely disconnected from the power supply. Even after the cord is removed from the socket, the capacitors on the board can retain a residual charge, so let the router lie down off for a couple of minutes before starting work. This is a simple safety rule that is often ignored by beginners.

Search and Dismantling Hidden Helices

The first step in dismantling the Xiaomi Router 4A is to remove the external fasteners. At first glance, it may seem that there are no screws at all, since the bottom panel looks monolithic. However, on closer inspection, you can find recesses closed with rubber plugs or stickers.

In most cases, two screws are under a central sticker with technical information located at the bottom of the device. Gently peel off the edge of the label or cut it with a scalpel in the recesses to reach the screw heads. In some revisions, the screws can be hidden under rubber legs that need to be slightly bent.

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Use a dryer at minimum power to slightly warm up the sticker before removing - the glue will become softer, and the label can be removed without tears, saving the warranty seal (if it is still relevant).

Once you have unscrewed all the screws available, don't try to force the halves of the body out of the box. Check if there's any anchorage left under the antennas or in other hidden places. If the screws are twisted correctly, the body should be able to resist the effort without crunch.

Opening of the shell and latching

The main mechanism for attaching the halves of the Xiaomi 4A router body is plastic latches around the perimeter. They are located quite often, approximately every 2-3 centimeters, and to open them, you need to insert a plastic blade into the junction between the top and bottom of the case.

Start at the back of the device, where the ports are located, gradually moving to the front panel. Move the tool along the seam, slightly pressing and simultaneously conducting it to hear the clicks of the opening locks. Sharp jerks can break the plastic hooks, after which the body will be assembled loosely and begin to creak.

When you hear the characteristic click around the perimeter, you can gently lift the top cover. Inside you'll see the main circuit board, which can be additionally secured with screws to the bottom of the case or held on frictions. In the Gigabit version, you often find a metal screen or radiator screwed to the board.

Analysis of internal layout and board

When you remove the lid, you will see the internal device of the router. Xiaomi Mi Router 4A board is compact, with a two-way arrangement of elements. The main focus is on the processor and memory chips, which are often closed by metal screens to protect against electromagnetic interference.

If you want to install external cooling or modify antennas, you need to know the location of key components, and the antennas are connected through thin coaxial connectors that require very careful handling, and you need to disconnect them by putting the metal part of the connector upwards, rather than pulling the wire.

Note the power system. It's simple in budget models, but overheating the power supply inside a closed enclosure can lead to unstable operation, which is why many enthusiasts are looking to improve air circulation inside the router.

Access to UART and flashing the device

One of the main reasons for disassembling the router is the need to access the UART debugging console. On the Xiaomi 4A board, contacts are soldered for serial connection, which allows you to restore the device if you failed to firmware or get root rights.

The contacts are usually located near the processor or on the edge of the board and are labeled VCC, GND, TX, RX. You'll need a USB-TTL adapter to connect. It's important not to confuse the transmission and reception lines.

Connecting the UART- adapter to the router:


GND Adapter -> GND Router




TX adapter -> RX router




RX Adapter -> TX Router




(No need to connect the VCC line!)

⚠️ Attention: Line connection VCC (power) from the adapter to the router can cause the board to burn, as the device is already receiving power from its unit.

Once connected, you can use a terminal program, such as PuTTY or SecureCRT, with speed settings of 115200 bp, giving you full control over the Breed or U-Boot bootloader, allowing you to flood alternative firmware such as OpenWrt or Padavan.

Router assembly and performance check

After performing all the necessary manipulations (cleaning, soldering, installing the radiator), the assembly stage begins, which is no less important than disassembly, since improper installation of components can lead to short circuits or poor contact of antennas.

First of all, make sure that all antenna plumes and wires are stacked in their channels and not clamped by the body. The antenna wires must be connected tightly, until the characteristic click of the connector. Any sagging can disrupt the antenna's alignment and lower the signal level.

So, you can combine the halves of the body from the front, and you can press the perimeter carefully until all the locks are snapped. There should be no gaps. Only after the body is fully loaded, you can screw the screws into the bottom panel. If the screw is not easily screwed, don't press -- check if the holes are aligned correctly.

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The quality of the assembly directly affects the thermal regime: a tightly closed body without cracks reduces heat worse, so when installing powerful modifications, ventilation holes should be provided.

The final step is to connect the power and cables. Turn on the router and wait for the load. Check the Wi-Fi signal level at different points in the room to make sure that the antenna paths were not damaged during the assembly.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)