How to replace the wheel on the Xiaomi electric scooter: full instructions

Xiaomi scooters have earned worldwide popularity for their reliability and affordable price, but even the most proven models eventually need maintenance. The most vulnerable element of the design is the chassis, namely tires that are subject to constant friction, puncture and wear. The question of how to replace the wheel on the Xiaomi electric scooter becomes relevant for most owners after six months or a year of active operation, especially if you often skate on uneven asphalt or gravel-covers.

The process of changing the wheel may seem difficult to a beginner, but with a basic set of tools and understanding the physics of the process, this procedure can be done at home. It is important to understand that the design of the scooters of the M365, Pro, 1S and Pro 2 series is almost identical, which allows you to use a single methodology for all these models. In this article, we will discuss each stage of dismantling and installation, paying special attention to the nuances that are often silent in service centers.

Before you start to act, you need to assess the condition of your vehicle and prepare your workplace. Wheel replacement is not just a mechanical operation, it is the ability to perform a complete inspection of the unit, check the bearings and the condition of the single tape. Safety when performing work is paramount, so ignoring simple rules can lead to electronic damage or injuries.

Tools and workplace preparation

Quality training is half the success of any repair operation. To work with the undercarriage of an electric scooter, you will need not only a standard set of keys, but also specific tools to help avoid damage to plastic and metal parts. Lack of necessary equipment often leads to the fact that the replacement process takes hours or ends with the plucked faces of the bolts.

There are many options available on the market, from original chamber tires to tubeless reinforced tires, the type of rubber that you choose has a direct impact on your driving comfort and the likelihood of punctures in the future, and it is also important to consider the compatibility of the tread pattern with the conditions in which you plan to operate the vehicle.

⚠️ Attention: Before starting any work, be sure to turn off the power of the scooter through the application or by clamping the power button to avoid short circuits in case of accidental contact of motor-wheel wires.

To perform a successful operation, you will need the following tools:

• 🔧 Set of hexagonal keys (required to have keys 5 mm and 6 mm of high quality).
• 🔨 Hammer (preferably with rubber or plastic nozzle for working with bearings).
• 🧴 Soap solution or special lubricant to facilitate the installation of the tire.
• 🔌 Bearing removable or diameter-appropriate head for axle extraction.
• 🧤 Tight work gloves to protect your hands from cuts and contamination.

⚠️ Attention: The use of rusted or deformed keys can lead to slithering of the faces of the fasteners, which will greatly complicate the dismantling of the wheel.

The workplace should be well lit and have a hard coating. It is recommended to use a workbench or stable table, as working on your knees or on weight reduces the accuracy of movements. Prepare a container for folding small parts such as bolts, nuts and screws so that nothing is lost in the process.

Dismantling the motor-wheel: a step-by-step algorithm

The process of removing the motor wheel requires care, because the hub is suitable for wires that are easily damaged by careless movement. The first step is always to weaken the fasteners while the scooter is on the wheels or securely fixed in an inverted position, which avoids scrolling the axle when the nuts are unscrewed.

Start by removing the engine cap, which blocks access to the insides of the hub. Different Xiaomi models may have different screw numbers, but the arrangement remains similar. Once the lid is removed, you will have access to the contact group and the internal mechanism, allowing you to visually assess the insulation status of the wires.

The next thing you need to do is disconnect the electrical connectors. On the M365 and Pro, they're usually located inside the deck or around the fork, and it's important not to pull the wires themselves, but to carefully remove the plastic connectors by holding them by the body, and once the electrician is turned off, you can start completely dismantling the unit.

Remove the nut that holds the wheel axis, and carefully remove the wheel from the fork. If the wheel is stuck, do not use excessive force, jerking — better knock on the axis with a hammer through a wooden gasket. The motor wheel has a significant weight, so hold it with your second hand so that it does not fall to the floor.

Replacement of camera and tires: technical nuances

The most time-consuming part of the process is replacing the rubber itself. If you're using a chamber structure, you have to flush the air completely and remove the camera from under the tyre. The tubeless tires require a more delicate approach, because it's important not to damage the board, which ensures tightness.

Removing an old tire often requires physical effort, rubber eventually sticks to the rim, and it is almost impossible to remove it with your hands. Use mounting blades, but act carefully so as not to damage the rim tape that protects the camera from spokes or rim irregularities.

When installing a new camera or tubeless tire, it is critical to correctly distribute the rubber around the rim. Misalignment can lead to the wheel beating when moving or re-swimming the air. Lubricate the sides with soapy solution, which will greatly facilitate installation and allow the rubber to stand in place without tearing.

After installing the new rubber, you need to pump the wheel to the working pressure. For the front and rear wheel, the values may differ, so refer to the technical documentation or sticker on the scooter deck. Check the tightness of the connections by applying soapy water to the seam - the absence of bubbles will confirm the success of the operation.

Dismantling and installation of a conventional (non-motor) wheel

Replacing the front wheel, which is not a drive wheel, is technically simpler, but has its own design features of bearings and brake discs. The main difference is the lack of electrical connections, which eliminates the risk of damage to the wiring, but requires care when working with the braking system.

First, you need to remove the brake disc. It's attached to several bolts, which are often very tightly tight and can have a thread lock. When unscrewing, hold the disc so that it doesn't fall or deform, because even minimal curvature will cause the brake pads to frictate.

The wheel itself is removed in a similar way to a motor wheel: the axle nut is unscrewed, and the wheel is removed from the fork. Pay attention to the condition of the bearings, if they have a backlash or hum when rotating, they are also better replaced at the same time as the rubber, which will save you time in the future.

When installing a new wheel, it is important to position the brake disc correctly. It should stand exactly between the pads without touching them. After assembly, be sure to check the brake: the wheel should rotate freely with the released lever and lock confidently when pressed.

Comparative table of wheel characteristics

Understanding the differences between wheel types and their compatibility with different scooters helps avoid mistakes when buying parts.The market offers many modifications, and it is easy for a beginner to get confused in the designations.

As you can see from the table, the overall dimensions of the wheels in most popular models are identical, making them interchangeable in terms of rubber. However, the engine power and design features of the hub may differ, so when replacing the motor-wheel assembly must strictly observe model compatibility.

Typical errors and troubleshooting

Even following instructions, inexperienced craftsmen often make mistakes that can nullify all efforts. One of the most common problems is that the bandwidth is not installed correctly or damaged when mounted, which causes the camera to constantly pierce the edge of the spoke holes or rim irregularities.

Another common mistake is the tightening or underweight of the axle fasteners. Excessive force can damage the thread on the aluminum fork, and a weak tightening will lead to a backlash of the wheel and a potentially dangerous situation on the road. Use the dynamometer key or focus on the force indicated in the manual.

If the scooter makes extraneous sounds or vibrates after the wheel is replaced, check the alignment. Sometimes the new tire may get skewed and needs to be seated, braked sharply at a safe speed or riding with a snake, and the source of noise can also be improperly installed bearings.

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To extend the life of the new camera, it is recommended to use talc. Sprinkle the camera with talc before installing the tire inside - this will reduce the friction of the rubber against the rubber and prevent overheating.

If the motor-wheel is not rotating after replacement or is running in jerks, check the connection of the phase wires. The confused phases can lead to incorrect operation of the controller. Make sure that the connectors are latched to the end and the contact is reliable.

Running-in and final system check

After a successful wheel replacement, you should not immediately reach the maximum speed. New tires require running-in to finally take the shape of the rim and wear off. The first 10-15 kilometers are recommended to drive in a gentle mode, avoiding sharp acceleration and braking.

Be sure to check the tire pressure 24 hours after replacement. Even the best tires can lose pressure a little on the first day due to thermal expansion and shrinkage of materials. If necessary, pump the wheels to nominal values.

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Quality wheel replacement prolongs the life of bearings and motor, reducing the vibration load on the frame and electronics of the scooter.

The final step is to visualize the assembly, make sure that all bolts are twisted, that the wires are not bolted or rubbed against moving parts, and that the wheel rotates freely, and only then can the scooter be considered fully operational.