Xiaomi Mi A1 battery replacement: a complete repair guide

The Xiaomi Mi A1, released as part of the Android One program, has been popular for years due to its clean system and balanced performance. However, time does not spare lithium-polymer batteries, and after a few years of active use, owners begin to notice a critical drop in autonomy. The device can discharge in a couple of hours, suddenly turn off at 20-30% charge or even swell, peeling off the case. In this situation, the user faces a choice: carry the gadget to the service center or try to repair yourself.

The process of replacing the power source in this model has its own characteristics that distinguish it from many other devices in the line of Redmi or Mi. The design of the device involves the use of a glass back panel, which requires increased caution and the presence of specific tools. Wrong actions can lead to glass breakage or damage to internal components, so it is important to follow the algorithm of actions and understand the risks. Our goal is to provide comprehensive information that will help you safely return life to your smartphone.

Before you start disassembling, you need to evaluate your strength and prepare the workplace. You need good lighting, no dust, no static electricity. Remember, any self-repair removes the warranty if it was still in effect, but for a device that is several years old, this is not as important as restoring its functionality. Next, we will discuss each step in detail.

⚠️ If the battery is in your Xiaomi Mi A1 swelling, do not attempt to puncture it or compress it very strongly. Damage to the shell can lead to ignition of the chemical composition.

Tools and workplace preparation required

The quality of the result depends on preparation. To work with the glass back cover of a conventional set of screwdrivers will not be enough. You will need a specialized tool that minimizes the risk of damage to the case. Lack of the right tools often leads to amateur masters breaking the glass when trying to peel it off.

First of all, you need a heat source. The glue that holds the back panel softens when exposed to temperature, allowing the glass to be carefully separated from the frame. Do not use an open fire, as this can damage the display or internal components. The optimal solution is a professional heating pad or a household hair dryer with temperature adjustment.

It is also critical to have a suction cup and thin plastic mediators (scapula) on hand, and metal tools should not be used as they can short contacts on the board or damage plumes. PH00 or PH000.

• 🔧 dryer or heat heater.
• 📱 Suction cup for careful glass lifting.
• 🛠 A set of plastic shoulder blades and mediators.
• 🔩 Cross screwdriver (size) PH00).
• 🧲 Magnetic mat or screw container.
• 🧹 Isopropyl alcohol and napkins for cleaning.

After collecting the tools, be sure to turn off the smartphone. Transfer the device to the state of "Switched off" and remove the tray. SIM-This is a standard safety procedure that will prevent accidental short circuits in the electronics process.

Removal of the rear glass panel

The most difficult and risky step is to separate the back cover.The adhesive layer used by the manufacturer is strong enough to ensure tightness, but it can be overcome with patience and heat.Don't try to tear the glass away by force without prior preparation - it's guaranteed to lead to cracks.

Turn the dryer on to the average temperature and start warming the perimeter of the back cover. Keep the heat source 3-5 cm from the surface, moving it evenly along the circuit for 2-3 minutes. The glass should become warm, but not hot enough to be impossible to hold in your hands. Overheating can damage the display on the back side or the adhesive connections of the plumes.

Once warmed up, place the suction cup at the bottom of the back, closer to the MI logo. Pull the suction cup up, creating a small gap between the glass and the frame. Insert a plastic mediator immediately into the resulting slit. Don't remove the tool until you've walked around the perimeter.

Carefully use the mediator along the edges, cutting the adhesive layer. Pay special attention to the corners and areas around the camera module, as there the adhesive can be applied with a thicker layer. Move slowly, controlling the depth of the tool so that the internal components do not touch.

Dismantling internal components and protection of boards

When you successfully remove the back cover, you'll see the interior of your smartphone, and the main board is covered with a plastic safety pad that's mounted with a lot of screws, and at this point, it's important not to lose the fasteners, because they can have different lengths and threads.

Use a prepared cross screwdriver to unscrew all the visible screws on the plastic cover, which can be as many as 10-12 pieces. It is recommended to use a magnetic mat or spread the screws in the same order in which you twisted them, so that there is no confusion during the assembly.

Once you remove all the screws, you gently lift the plastic protection, and underneath it is a motherboard that has the main plumes connected to it, and there's a battery connector that you need to turn off first, and that will turn off the device and protect the board from accidental power surges.

To turn off the battery plume, use a plastic blade. Put the connector up from the bottom without putting too much effort. The FPC connector is quite brittle, and it's easily damaged by a metal tool or by moving too hard. Once you shut it down, you can move on to removing the old battery.

Removing the old battery and installing a new one

The battery in the Xiaomi Mi A1 is fixed to double-sided tape, which over time becomes very durable, and trying to pull the battery by force behind the sticking edges can lead to its deformation or puncture, which is dangerous, and you need to act methodically and using heat.

So again, warm up the battery area a little bit through the open case, and this will soften the glue, and then you can use a plastic card or a special blade to gently tuck the battery in from different sides, and some of the craftsmen use special sticky tractor belts that start under the battery, but in the home, there's enough patience and plastic.

Never use metal objects to pick the battery inside the case. One awkward movement can pierce the shell, cause sparks and even fire. If the battery is swelling, treat it with extreme caution, trying not to press on the center of the bloating.

Once the old element is removed, carefully clean the seat of glue residues. Use isopropyl alcohol and a lilac-free wipe. The surface must be clean and defatted to securely lock the new battery. The new battery often has a film-protected adhesive layer on it.

• 🧹 Clean the battery bed of old glue.
• 🔋 Remove the protective film from the new element.
• 📐 Combine battery contacts with the connector on the board.
• 🖐 Carefully press the battery to the case throughout the area.

Install the new battery by plugging it into the board first. Make sure the connector is up straight and clicking. Then you can press the battery to the bottom of the case. Make sure it's flat and doesn't stick out above the frame level.

Device assembly and initial start

The assembly is done in reverse disassembly. Place a plastic protective pad and twist all the screws. Don't pull the screws over, especially those close to the edges of the board, so as not to damage the textolite. Controlling the force during tightening is an important skill for any repairman.

Before you stick the back cover, you should run a test run. Connect the display plume (if it's turned off) and press the switch on. If the smartphone is on, shows the image and sees the charging, it's a success. If the screen is black, check the density of the plumes.

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Before the final gluing of the body, check the vibrator and sound so as not to disassemble the phone again in case of a malfunction.

If the test is successful, apply a new layer of glue (B-7000 or special glue for screens) around the perimeter of the frame. Spread it evenly and install the back cover. Lock it with rubber bands or a load for 15-20 minutes before the initial grasp. Complete polymerization of the glue takes about 24 hours.

⚠️ Warning: Make sure that the glue does not get into the camera lens, charging connector or speaker.

Calibration of the new battery

After the battery is replaced, the system may not correctly display the percentage of charge, because the power controller must “learn” how to work with the new element, and the calibration process will help avoid a situation where the phone turns off at 15% or charges to 100% in 10 minutes.

First, fully discharge the smartphone before it spontaneously shuts down. Then, when it's off, charge it until it reaches 100%. Once the indicator shows full charge, don't disconnect the phone from the network for another 1-2 hours. This will allow the saturation currents to level out.

Repeat the full discharge and charge cycle 1-2 more times. Usually after that, the battery indicator starts working correctly, showing the real capacity. Modern controllers in the Xiaomi Mi A1 are quite smart, but manual calibration helps synchronize the software and hardware parts.

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Proper battery calibration extends battery life and ensures an accurate display of the charge level in the Android system.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)