How to remove the back cover Xiaomi Mi Max: full instructions for disassembly

Xiaomi Mi Max series smartphones have earned a reputation for being reliable devices with a huge screen, but time does not spare even the best electronics. Most often, owners face the need to replace the battery, which eventually loses its capacity, or repair the broken glass of the display. To access the internal components, the first and most difficult step is the dismantling of the rear panel, which requires care, since the cover is attached to the adhesive base around the perimeter of the case.

Many users mistakenly believe that it is enough to just tamper with the edge, but the Mi Max, Mi Max 2 and Mi Max 3 models use different methods of fixing and placing plumes. Wrong actions can lead to damage to the fingerprint scanner plume or cracks in the glass itself. In this article, we will discuss in detail how to remove the back cover of the Xiaomi Mi Max, what tools you need and what nuances should be paid special attention to before starting work.

Is it worth opening the device yourself if you don't have experience? The risks do exist, but with a quality tool and patience, the task is quite solvable. It's important to understand that once the case is opened, the manufacturer's warranty is likely to be lost if it was still in effect. However, for devices that are out of warranty, this is the only way to extend the life of the gadget without going to a service center, where the cost of work can be a significant part of the cost of the used device.

Tools and workplace preparation required

Quality training is the key to successful disassembly of any modern technology. You will need not only the desire, but also a specialized set of tools that minimize the risk of damage to the body. The use of improvised tools like knives or screwdrivers with a wide sting is strongly discouraged, as they can crumble the glass or scratch the aluminum frame.

The main tool to separate the lid will be a suction cup and a thin plastic spatula (mediator). The suction cup is necessary to create the initial gap, and the mediator you will neatly cut through the adhesive layer. You will also need a hair dryer or a special heating pad to soften the adhesive. Do not use open fire or gas burners, as overheating can damage the screen matrix or internal plastic elements.

  • ๐Ÿ”ง Precision screwdrivers (cross-hatched) PH000, PH00) screw-twisting.
  • ๐Ÿ”ฅ Hair dryer construction or household with temperature adjustment for heating edges.
  • ๐Ÿ“ฑ Plastic blades and mediators for opening the body without scratches.
  • ๐Ÿงฒ Magnetic mat or organizer for sorting screws of different sizes.

โš ๏ธ Warning: Before starting work, be sure to turn off your smartphone. Working with a connected battery if you carelessly handle metal tools can cause a short circuit.

Organize the workplace so that the small details don't get lost. The light should be bright and directed so you can see the microscopic screws underneath the frame. If you have isopropyl alcohol, prepare it in advance, and it will help dissolve the remnants of the old glue when you reassemble or clean the frame.

โ˜‘๏ธ Checklist before disassembly

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The Mi Max, Mi Max 2 and Mi Max 3

Before you start heating, you need to clearly understand what kind of modification you are dealing with. The design of the rear cover in the Mi Max line has changed from model to model, and knowing these features will save you time and nerves. If in the first model the cover was completely removable, but on glue, in subsequent versions, engineers have made changes in the arrangement of components.

In the first generation Xiaomi Mi Max, the fingerprint scanner is on the back, and this is a critical point: when you peel off the lid, you have to be very careful in the bottom part where the plume is located. A sharp jerk can break the contact and the scanner will stop working. At the same time, the Mi Max 2 has a scanner on the front panel, which makes it much easier to remove the back cover, since it has no active connections to the motherboard.

The Mi Max 3 also has a scanner at the back, but the design of the camera module and its location require special attention when lifting the lid. Misunderstanding these nuances often leads to breakdowns. Always check the location of the plumes visually through a magnifying glass or macro shot of the phone before using force.

ModelScanner locationType of lid attachmentFeature
Xiaomi Mi MaxBack (cover)Glue + screw frameRisk of a scanner plume breaking
Xiaomi Mi Max 2Front (in screen)Perimeter glueThe lid has no plumes.
Xiaomi Mi Max 3Back (cover)Glue + screwsComplex geometry of the camera module

Understanding these differences allows you to choose the right opening strategy. For the Mi Max 2, the process is faster, because you can not be afraid to damage the electronics of the lid itself. Other models require jewelry accuracy. If you are not sure about your model, check the markings on the box or the settings of the device in the About Phone section.

๐Ÿ“Š What is the Xiaomi Mi Max model?
Mi Max (1st generation)
Mi Max 2
Mi Max 3
I don't know.

The process of heating and separation of the rear panel

The most important step is to soften the adhesive layer, the adhesive used by manufacturers is thermoactive, which means it becomes elastic when heated, don't try to remove the lid "cold" - this is guaranteed to lead to cracks, heat should be produced evenly throughout the perimeter, lingering at corners where the contact area is usually larger.

Use a dryer with a temperature of about 80-100 degrees Celsius. Keep the tool at a distance of 3-5 centimeters from the surface, constantly moving it so as not to overheat one point. The heating process usually takes from 2 to 5 minutes depending on the power of the hairdryer. After that, the glass should become warm, but not burning hot for the hands.

Once the body is warmed, install a suction cup at the bottom or top of the back cover (depending on the model, it is better to start from the side opposite to the plumes, if any). Pull the suction cup up, creating tension, and insert a thin plastic blade into the resulting microscopic gap. Don't use force if the blade doesn't go - add a little more heat.

Move the shoulder blade along the perimeter, cutting the glue. Hold the tool parallel to the plane of the smartphone so that you don't damage the internal components. If you feel strong resistance, stop and warm up the area again. Patience here is more important than strength. As you go around in a circle, you will free the lid from the frame.

โš ๏ธ Warning: Never enter a metal blade deeper 2-3 And there's millimeters inside the case, and there's a display plume and other delicate components that damage will take the phone out of order.

Once the glue is cut through the entire perimeter, gently lift the lid. If you have a model with a scanner at the back, don't pull the lid high -- first inspect the bottom for the plume. It may be glued to the inside of the glass.

What to do if the lid is not removed?
If the lid fails to smack after heating and trying to smack, the glue may have become too polymerized, and in this case you can use a special adhesive solvent (e.g. B-7000 or isopropyl alcohol) by sliding it into the gap and waiting 5-10 minutes. It also helps to have a longer but tidy heating. Don't use excessive force, the glass may burst from the voltage.

Disconnection of plumes and dismantling of internal components

When you successfully remove the back cover, you have the inside of your smartphone, but your goal is not yet achieved: to fully remove the battery or motherboard, you need to turn off the plumes. In models where the fingerprint scanner is located on the back cover (Mi Max, Mi Max 3), the first thing you need to do is find a connector.

Normally, the scanner plume is connected to the bottom of the motherboard or to a separate plume that runs from it. Carefully bend the fixing plate (if any) and put the connector up with a flat tool. The movements must be strictly vertical so as not to break the contacts on the board. Once the plume is turned off, the cover can be put to a safe place.

Then you take off the plastic shield that covers the main part of the internals, and it's attached to a lot of small screws of different sizes, and it's critical to remember or photograph the location of each screw, because screwing a long screw into a short hole can penetrate the motherboard right through.

  • ๐Ÿ“ธ Take a photo of the location of the screws before twisting them.
  • ๐Ÿ”Œ Turn off the battery plume before any work with the fee.
  • ๐Ÿงน Clean the insides of the dust with compressed air or a soft brush.

Once the protection is removed, you will have access to the battery and the bottom plume. Battery replacement often requires removing the lower charge, as the battery may be glued to the frame. Use a plastic card to tamper with the battery by pre-unplugging traction strips (if designed) or heating the area under the battery.

๐Ÿ’ก

Use isopropyl alcohol to clean the plume contacts. Apply a couple of drops on a cotton swab and gently wipe the connectors - this often solves problems with unstable sensor or charging.

Assembly of the device and installation of a new glue base

Reverse assembly requires as much care as disassembly. Before installing a new battery or returning the old one to its place, you need to carefully clean the frame of the residue of old black glue, which can be done with your finger, rolling the residues, or using soft fabric moistened with alcohol, the surface should be perfectly smooth and fat-free.

To seal the case, use a special glue sealant (e.g., B-7000) or a ready-made adhesive base (double-sided tape along the contour). The adhesive base is preferable, since it has the desired thickness and stickiness, ensuring factory tightness. Apply the adhesive with a thin layer around the perimeter, avoiding contact with cameras and sensors.

Connect all the plumes in reverse sequence: first the scanner plume (if it's on the lid), then the battery and display plume. Make sure all the connectors are snapped to the characteristic click. Set up a plastic safety panel and twist all the screws to their original length.

Press the back cover against the body and hold it with rubber harnesses or a load for 15-20 minutes until the glue is completely dry. Don't turn the phone on immediately - let the sealant grab. After you turn on, check the touchscreen, cameras, speakers and fingerprint scanner.

โš ๏ธ Warning: If the phone doesn't turn on or doesn't work properly after assembly, don't panic. There's probably a plume that's not fully plugged in. Carefully open the case again and reconnect all the connectors.

๐Ÿ’ก

The quality of the back cover has a direct impact on the waterproof and durability of the battery. Don't skimp on glue-based and clean the frame thoroughly before assembly.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Can I remove the back cover of Xiaomi Mi Max without a hair dryer?
Theoretically, you can use a very thin string or line that you extend around the perimeter, cutting the glue, but without heating it, the glue remains very hard, and the risk of breaking the glass or damaging the frame increases dramatically, and heating is a prerequisite for safe disassembly.
What to do if the fingerprint scanner plume breaks?
If the plume breaks, the scanner will stop working. You can try ordering the scanner module separately and soldering contacts if you have the skills to solder the chips, otherwise you will have to use a smartphone without unlocking the fingerprint or replace the back cover assembled with the scanner (if you find one on sale).
Do I need to completely drain the battery before replacing it?
No, on the contrary, it is better to replace the battery with a charge of about 30-50%, a fully charged battery is more fire-prone when damaged, and a fully discharged one may not start the phone immediately after installation for inspection.
How to remove the gap between the lid and the frame after assembly?
If there's a gap after assembly, make sure all screws are twisted and in their places, and the gap can also be due to too thick adhesive layer or glue-based dust, sometimes helping to re-heat the edges lightly and press hard while cooling.