How to remove the rear wheel on a Xiaomi scooter: the complete guide

Xiaomi’s M365, Pro and Pro 2 series of electric scooters have proven to be reliable for urban driving, but even the best equipment requires maintenance. One of the most common procedures faced by owners is to dismantle the rear wheel to replace the camera, repair the tire or maintain the motor wheel. This process requires care, since the rear axle carries not only the weight of the rider, but also the traction force of the engine.

Many users mistakenly believe that the procedure is identical to replacing a wheel on a bicycle, which is a gross mistake. Xiaomi's design has its own nuances related to electrical connections and the specifics of axle mounting. Wrong actions can lead to wiring damage, thread failure or even a controller failure. In this article, we will take a detailed look at each step so that you can perform the job safely and efficiently.

Before you start any manipulation, you need to prepare the workspace and tools. You need a clean surface, enough lighting and a set of tools. Ignoring the preparatory stage often leads to the fact that at the most inopportune moment it is not enough key the right size or bolts are stuck dead. On the Pro and Pro 2 models, the wheel axis is fixed with threaded glue, so without preheating, dismantling is almost impossible.

Tools and workplace preparation required

The 80 percent success of the operation depends on the right tooling, and the standard kit that comes with the scooter is only suitable for tyre swaps and basic adjustments, but it won't be enough to remove the wheel, and you'll need more serious tools that can withstand high loads when unscrewing sour joints.

The main tool will be a hexagon size of 8 mm, preferably high quality, hardened steel, so as not to lick the edges, also a hair dryer for construction work or a powerful lighter, because the heat treatment of the bolts is a critical step. To work with electricity, you will need a screwdriver with a cross sting and perhaps tweezers to carefully remove the connectors.

• 🛠️ Hexagonal key (allen) size 8 mm - the main tool for the axis.
• 🔥 Building hair dryer or gas burner - to heat the threaded fixator.
• 🔌 Flat and cross screwdrivers - for dismantling the engine cover and working with wires.
• 🧤 Tight working gloves – to protect hands from sharp edges and dirt.

Organise the space so that the scooter is stable. It is best to turn it upside down, leaning on the steering wheel and seat (if any), or ask the assistant to hold the frame. Make sure there is free space under the deck to lower the wheel, and nothing prevents the axle from being completely removed.

Security measures and advance training

The electric components of the scooter require strict precautions. The rear wheel in the Xiaomi M365 and Pro models is a motor wheel that contains magnets and windings. Damage to the insulation of the wires or short circuit of the contacts can lead to expensive repairs.

⚠️ Before starting work, be sure to turn off the scooter and let it stand. 2-3 This is necessary so that the capacitors in the controller are discharged, and the residual voltage does not create sparks when the connectors are turned off.

Pay special attention to the state of the battery: if the battery is discharged to zero or, conversely, 100% charged, the risk of problems when manipulating the BMS (battery management system) increases. The optimal level of charge for work is about 50-60%.

If you're planning to change the camera, make sure that there's no metal shavings or glass inside the new tire and rim that might have been there before, and the dirt and sand inside the motor wheel can damage the magnets or jam the bearings.

Dismantling the motor-wheel cover and power outage

The first technical step is to gain access to electrical connections: on the left side of the rear wheel (on the side where there is no brake disc), there is a plastic or metal cover that hides the wires. On different Xiaomi models, the mounting may differ: somewhere it is screwdrivers, somewhere it is hidden latches.

Carefully unscrew all visible screws, trying not to put too much effort into not breaking the thread in the soft metal of the case. Once the lid is removed, you will see the connectors. There are usually two of them: one for the phases of the motor (thick wires) and one for the Hall sensors (thin wires).

It's important to remember or photograph the connection of the wires before they're disconnected. Although it's difficult to confuse them because of the shape of the connectors, visual fixation will help avoid assembly errors. To turn off, gently pull the plastic case of the connector, not the wires themselves.

• 📸 Take a photo of the wire connection before disconnecting.
• 🔌 Turn off the connectors while holding on to the plastic tips.
• 🧹 Wipe the contacts with dry cloth if you notice oxidation.
• 🔍 Check the integrity of the wire insulation for cracks.

Once the wires are turned off, carefully remove them inside the wheel cavity or fasten them so that they do not interfere with further axle dismantling. Now the electrical part is disconnected, and you can proceed to mechanical removal of the wheel.

Removal of the rear wheel: step-by-step instructions

The most difficult step is to release the axis. As mentioned earlier, the axis carvings are treated in the factory with a special fixing compound that prevents spontaneous unwinding when vibrating, and over time this compound hardens, turning into stone, so you can't do without heating.

Heat the area around the axis nut and the nut itself with a building hair dryer for 2-3 minutes.The metal should get hot, but don't overdo it to avoid damaging the frame paint or the plastic elements nearby. After warming up quickly until the metal has cooled, try to break the nut with a key.

Insert the 8mm key into the axis end on one side and hold it. On the other hand, screw the nut (if it's been removed) or use the second key to create a stop. In a sharp but strong movement, try to turn the axis. If the axis doesn't turn, you may have to remove the brake caliper to free up space.

Once the thread is ripped, unscrew the axle completely. Keep the wheel on the back of your hand so it doesn't fall to the ground when the axle comes out. Carefully pull the wheel out of the fork, making sure the wires don't catch on the frame. Now the motor-wheel is free.

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The secret to success is to warm up the carvings before trying to unscrew, and the cold axle on old scooters is very rare.

Table of technical parameters and moments of tightening

When reassembling, it is critical to observe the right bolt tightening moments. Too little puff will lead to wheel backlash and rapid wear of bearings, and excessive one to axle deformation or thread failure. Below are recommended parameters for various models.

Use a dynamometer key if you can to follow the parameters exactly. If you don't have one, tighten the axis with a force that matches a confident pulling by an adult, but without applying the weight of the whole body. After the first 10-20 kilometers of run, be sure to check the axis tightening again.

Remember to apply a new layer of thread retainer (like Loctite 243) when you assemble it, which will prevent the wheel from unscrewing in the future, and apply the compound to old-glue-free and fat-free threads.

Typical errors and troubleshooting

In the repair process, beginners often make mistakes that can lead to re-disassembly or breakage of components. One of the most common mistakes is damage to the insulation of the wires when the wheel is removed. The motor wires pass through the hollow axis, and if you sloppyly pull them out, you can cut them with a sharp edge of metal.

Another common problem is washer loss or misplacement, and there are often remote washers or anthers between the wheel hub and the scooter plug, and if you forget to set them up or mix them up, the wheel will get crooked, causing the tire to wear out quickly and beat when riding.

⚠️ Warning: Never turn on a scooter with an open motor-wheel cover or loose wires. A rotating rotor can tighten wires, causing a short circuit and a fire.

If the scooter twitches or makes strange sounds when you start, check the connection of the Hall sensors. The connector may not be fully inserted or the order of the wires is confused. Also make sure that the axis is tightened evenly on both sides.

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When installing a new camera, be sure to sprinkle it with talc inside the tire, which will prevent the camera from friction against rubber and reduce the risk of "herring" or punctures from overheating.