Modern smartphones from Chinese brand Xiaomi, including sub-brands Redmi and POCO, often require careful intervention to replace the battery, display or repair other internal components. The back cover is the first barrier that the wizard needs to overcome, and the approach to this process is radically different depending on the material of the case. If you are used to disassembling old phones with removable batteries, then here you will find an unpleasant surprise: in 95% of cases, the panel is glued dead.
Incorrect opening of the case can lead to chipping of glass, damage to the plumes of the fingerprint scanner or even deformation of the frame. Before you take up the tools, it is important to understand that the sealed housing will be broken, and the factory moisture protection will cease to work fully. This guide will help you minimize risks and perform the dismantling as clean and safe as possible for electronics.
It requires patience and a specific set of tools that are at risk of damaging fragile elements. We'll look at the nuances of working with different types of materials, because glass and plastic behave very differently when heated and mechanically exposed. A careful study of the theory before practice will save your gadget from fatal damage.
Preparation of the workplace and necessary tools
The proper disassembly of any electronic device starts with the proper organization of the space. You'll need a clean, well-lit surface, preferably an antistatic mat, to prevent damage to the chips by static electricity. The main tool for removing the lid is a heating element, which can be a professional heating pad or a regular hair dryer, although the latter is less effective.
In addition to thermal exposure, you will need suction cups to initially tear the panel off and a set of plastic mediators (scapulas). Metal tools are highly undesirable, as they easily leave deep scratches on the ends and can short contacts inside the case. To work with the adhesive layer, you will also need a special liquid B-7000 or isopropyl alcohol to clean the residue of the adhesive.
Don't forget to prepare the screw tank, because different Xiaomi models use fasteners of different lengths and diameters. If you confuse them when you build, you can damage the thread or break through the board. Organize the process so that all the tools are at hand, and you do not have to reach across the desktop.
- 🔧 Heating appliance (dryer or thermal separation platform) for softening glue.
- 🛠 Suction and a set of plastic blades for a careful opening.
- 🧴 Isopropyl alcohol or adhesive solvent for final cleaning.
- 🔩 Set of screwdrivers (usually cross-shaped) P2, P5) and tweezers for small details.
⚠️ Warning: Never start picking the lid with a screwdriver without first warming up! cold glue holds the glass very tightly and a sharp force is guaranteed to cause cracks across the entire surface of the panel.
☑️ Ready to disassemble
Differences in design: glass vs. plastic
Understanding the back material is key to success. Xiaomi and Mi series flagships often feature premium-looking glass covers that are brittle. Glass does not conduct heat well, so you need to warm it up evenly and for longer, constantly monitoring the temperature so as not to overheat the display matrix on the back.
Redmi’s low-end and mid-end devices often have a plastic back cover, plastic is more flexible and forgives some errors, it warms up more easily and cracks less frequently when handled carelessly, but the plastic panel can deform (go in waves) when heated too much, making subsequent installation of a new cover impossible without gaps.
You can visually and tactilely identify the material: glass is always colder to the touch and rings with a light tapping of the nails. Plastic is warmer and makes a deaf sound. Also, you should pay attention to the presence of an NFC logo or flash: if they are cut in the lid itself, the risk of damaging them when opened is minimal, but if there are plumes under the panel, extreme caution is required.
How to check for the presence of plumes under the cover?
Step-by-step instructions: heating and opening the body
The most critical step is to break the adhesive layer. Put the phone down on a soft cloth or silicone mat to avoid scratching the display. Turn the hair dryer on to the average temperature and start warming the perimeter of the lid, evenly driving the nozzle around. Don't hold the hair dryer at one point for longer than 2-3 seconds to avoid local overheating.
The heating process usually takes 3 to 5 minutes depending on the model and the thickness of the glue. Periodically try the temperature of the glass with your finger - it should become hot, but not burning (about 60-70 degrees Celsius). If the phone is too hot to hold in your hand, then the temperature is sufficient to start working.
Once warmed up, place a suction cup at the bottom of the back cover, closer to the edge. Pull the suction cup up, creating tension, and insert a thin plastic blade or a special blade into the resulting microscopic gap. Don't go straight to the bottom of the tool, your job is to cut through the first millimeter of glue.
Move the shoulder blade along the perimeter, constantly heating the areas where the glue starts to resist again. Move smoothly, without jerking. If you feel that the panel is not going, do not use force - better add a little more heat. In models with a fingerprint scanner on the lid, be especially careful in the area of its location.
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Use a playing card or flexible plastic card instead of a hard blade for the final perimeter pass – this will reduce the risk of leaving scratches on the inside of the frame.
Features of working with a fingerprint scanner and plumes
Many Xiaomi models (e.g. Redmi Note 8 Pro, Mi 9T, POCO X3) have a fingerprint scanner module built directly into the back cover. This means that it is physically impossible to completely remove the panel without disconnecting the plume. Trying to tear the cover together with the plume will lead to a break in the contacts and the scanner will not work.
Once you've cut through the perimeter, lift the lid slightly (literally 1-2 centimeters) and look inside, and you'll see the plume going from the scanner to the motherboard, gently bend the connector or slide it with a plastic blade to detach, and then you can remove the back panel completely.
In some cases, the scanner can be glued to the inside of the lid with an extra layer of glue, so if the module is left on the phone body and a hole is formed in the lid, you have to gently unstick the module from the old lid and transfer it to a new one, or replace the entire plume. This requires jewelry accuracy.
| Xiaomi model | Scanner location | Type of connection | Risk of withdrawal |
|---|---|---|---|
| Redmi Note 8 Pro | Back, under the logo. | The plume on the connector | High (steel cliff) |
| Xiaomi Mi 9T | Back, center. | The plume on the connector | Medium. |
| POCO X3 NFC | Side (in the button) | Inside the hull | Low (cover without plumes) |
| Redmi Note 10 | Side (in the button) | Inside the hull | Low. |
If you accidentally damage the scanner plume, it's almost impossible to re-seal it at home -- you'll need a replacement module, so the seven-measure, one-cut rule works like never before.
Removal of glue residues and preparation for assembly
When you successfully remove the lid, you'll see a picture of the residue of old black or transparent glue around the frame and on the lid itself. You can't leave it there: the new panel just won't stick flat, there will be gaps, and the phone will fall out. Use a plastic blade and a cotton wool soaked in alcohol or a special solvent to remove it.
Rub it carefully, trying not to touch the internal components. If the glue is hardened, you can slightly warm it up with a hair dryer, so it becomes softer and easier to roll into lumps. The surface should be perfectly smooth and clean to the touch. Alcohol degreasing is a mandatory final step before applying a new adhesive.
To fix the new lid, it is best to use a special adhesive for electronics (for example, the B-7000 or T-7000), apply it with a thin continuous strip along the perimeter of the frame, avoiding hitting the camera and speaker. Excessive glue, protruded when pressed, is easily removed with a dry wipe before drying.
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The quality of cleaning the old adhesive base directly affects the moisture protection and aesthetics of the assembled device - do not be lazy to remove every millimeter of old glue.
Frequent Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
One of the most common mistakes is not warming up enough. Newbie masters are often afraid to overheat the phone and heat it too little, and then force the lid off. The result is cracked glass. It is better to warm up longer, but carefully, periodically checking the temperature with your hand.
The second mistake is using metal blades or knives, and the metal slides through the glue worse than plastic, but the main thing is that it leaves deep grooves on the aluminum frame that cannot be removed, and the metal tool can slip and damage the battery, which can ignite.
The third mistake is ignoring the plumes, always, absolutely always check for connections between the lid and the body before you finally remove the panel, and the rush at this point costs money and time to find new parts.
- 🚫 Do not use acetone to clean plastic – it can melt the texture of the lid.
- 🚫 Do not leave your phone on the heating pad unattended - the battery may overheat.
- 🚫 Do not glue the lid with superglue (cyanacrylate) – it crystallizes and makes re-repair impossible.
⚠️ Warning: If you damage the battery during the disassembly process (a dent appears, smoke or smell starts), immediately stop work, remove the device on a non-combustible surface and ensure that the room is aired!