The broken glass on the Xiaomi Redmi 4X is not only an aesthetic problem, but also a direct threat to the safety of the device. Sharp shards can damage the finger, and cracks grow over time, blocking the view and interfering with the touch layer. Many owners immediately carry the gadget into the service, believing that self-repair is too difficult or dangerous.
However, if you have minimal skills with small electronics and a heating tool, the procedure can be done at home. It is important to understand that replacing glass involves separating the matrix from the damaged coating, which requires accuracy and patience. Unlike replacing the entire module, this process is more time-consuming, but cost-effective.
In this article, we will look at all the steps of work, from the preparation of the workplace to the final assembly, you will learn what chemical solvents and tools are necessary to safely remove broken glass without damaging the liquid crystals of the display.
Required tools and materials for the job
Before the procedure begins, you need to prepare the workplace and purchase all consumables. Lack of the right tool at hand can lead to rush and damage to fragile components of the smartphone. The main element will be a new glass touchscreen, which must be compatible with the Redmi 4X model (model number is often indicated on the train).
You'll need a heating source. It could be a special separator, a UV lamp, or a regular hair dryer, although the latter is less effective at heating the glue evenly. It's also critical to have isopropyl alcohol or a special solvent B-7000 to soften the adhesive base. Don't use water or harsh chemicals that can damage the electronics.
The mechanical action will require fine strings (nichrome or conventional guitar), plastic cards or shoulder blades to detach the elements. Be sure to prepare a double-sided tape or liquid glue B-7000 to fix the new glass. The full list of instruments is best checked in advance, so as not to interrupt the process halfway.
- 🔥 Hair dryer or heating platform for softening glue.
- 🧵 Nichrome string or thin line for cutting the layer OCA.
- 🧪 Isopropyl alcohol and lilac-free wipes for cleaning.
- 🔧 Set of screwdrivers and plastic mediators for opening the body.
The quality of the materials used directly affects the final result. Cheap glue can get cloudy over time, and poor-quality glass can have a poor oleophobic coating or improper geometry. Oleophobic coating protects the screen from greasy marks and ensures smooth slipping of the finger, so when choosing a part, pay attention to the reviews about the specific supplier.
Disassembly of the body Xiaomi Redmi 4X
The process begins with the complete dismantling of the device. SIM-The card and the memory card, if you have it, then you twist the screws that are hidden under the plugs or at the bottom of the case. Be careful: the screws can be of different lengths, so it's better to unscrew them in order so you don't get confused when you build them.
When the back cover is removed, the insides are accessed, the first thing is to disconnect the battery plume from the motherboard, and this is a critical safety step: any manipulation of the electronics with the power connected can short-circuit and the board will fail, and only after the power out can the disassembly continue.
⚠️ Warning: Don't force the plumes to disconnect, they're fixed by special connectors that require careful smacking with a plastic blade. Excessive effort will cause the contacts to break.
Then you have to unscrew all the screws that hold the metal plates and remove them, and underneath them are the plumes of the display and the touchscreen, and carefully disconnect them using a plastic tool. Metal plates are often complex and fixed in the slots, so act slowly.
☑️ Checking before disassembly
When the display module is completely free of the mounts, it can be removed from the frame, at which point many craftsmen prefer to peel the frame off the display itself to work with it separately, or to replace it directly in the frame, which requires careful cleaning of the old glue, the choice of method depends on the availability of the separator and the experience of the master.
The process of separation of broken glass from the matrix
This is the most difficult and risky part of the repair, and your job is to separate the broken glass from the working matrix without damaging the latter, using heat, and the temperature should be sufficient to soften the polymer adhesive (usually around 80-90 degrees), but not critical for the LCD panel.
After warming up, a thin string is inserted into the gap between the glass and the matrix, and the movements must be smooth, reciprocal, reciprocal, reminiscent of the operation of a saw. It is important to keep the string parallel to the plane of the screen, so as not to "slam" into the matrix itself. As the string moves, alcohol is applied to facilitate the slip and dissolution of the glue.
What if the matrix leaks?
If the glass is really cracked, you can pre-seal it with transparent tape so that the fragments don't fly apart and are removed in one layer, which will make it easier and safer, and once the core layer is removed, there will be glue residue on the surface of the matrix that needs to be removed.
The adhesive residue matrix is cleaned with a special solvent and rubber rollers or gloved fingers, and you have to be very careful because the surface of the matrix is very sensitive to mechanical stress, and the polarization film under the glass is thin and easily breaks when cleaned carelessly.
- 🌡️ Warm the surface evenly, avoiding local overheating.
- 💧 Wetting the cut line abundantly with alcohol for lubrication.
- 👀 Constantly monitor the angle of entry of the string under the magnifying glass.
Surface cleaning and preparation for gluing
Once the glass is successfully separated, the finishing stage begins, and the surface of the matrix should not be left with a single trace of old glue, dust or pile, and any grain of sand left between the new glass and the matrix will be visible as a dark spot or air bubble, which after gluing will be impossible to fix.
Use a high concentration of isopropyl alcohol and a lintless wipe, and the movements should be light, without strong pressure, and after wet cleaning, make sure to wipe the surface with a dry wipe and examine it under bright light at different angles, and it is better to identify cleaning defects before applying new glue.
| Cleaning phase | Tool. | Purpose | Risks. |
|---|---|---|---|
| Glue removal | Rubber roller | Rolling of the main layer | Damage to polarization |
| Degreasing | Wrapper + alcohol | Fat and dust removal | The remains of the pile |
| Final examination | Lunch + light | Search for microparticles | Passage of defect |
| Protecting the plume | Scotch | Contact isolation | Getting glue on contacts |
Pay special attention to the edges of the matrix and the area around the plume. Often this is where the glue that is removed accumulates. For hard-to-reach areas, you can use a wooden toothpick, but you need to use it with the utmost care. It is also recommended to glue the display plume with paint tape so that it does not get glue during the final assembly.
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Use a sticky tape (scotch) wrapped around your fingers to collect tiny specks of dust from the surface of the matrix before gluing, which is more effective than just blowing on the screen.
Installation of new glass and bonding of the module
When the matrix is perfectly clean and the new glass is ready, you can start gluing, and the new glass is applied to a layer of special optically transparent adhesive (OCA) or liquid adhesive B-7000 in a thin, uniform layer, if you use film adhesive, you need to remove the protective layers and carefully combine the glass with the matrix.
The alignment has to be accurate to a millimeter. Once the two parts are connected, you have to drive out the air bubbles, and this is done with a rackel (a soft-padded plastic blade) or a special roller, and you move from center to edge, gradually pushing the air outward.
⚠️ Warning: If you use liquid glue, don't put too much glue on it, and it can leak out onto the side edges or, worse, leak into the matrix, permanently damaging the image.
Once the bubbles are removed, the module must be fixed, using special clamps or rubber bands that provide uniform pressure throughout the screen. The time of polymerization of the adhesive depends on its type: UV adhesives dry under the lamp in a few minutes, and the B-7000 requires 1 to 24 hours for a full set of strength.
When drying, it's best to leave the device horizontally, don't touch or check if you've caught it early, it can disrupt the structure of the adhesive layer and cause new bubbles, and even pressure is a guarantee that the touchscreen will work correctly throughout the area.
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The quality of the glue determines not only the appearance, but also the sensitivity of the sensor. Poorly glued glass can create "dead zones" or false presses.
Device assembly and initial inspection
Once the glue is completely frozen, the module is ready to be installed in the case. First, connect the display plume to the motherboard without fixing it completely immediately. Turn on the phone to check the performance of the image and touch layer.
Test for dead zones and color reproduction. If everything is working properly, turn off the phone, plug in a touchscreen plume (if it's separate), and carefully frame the module, make sure the plumes are not clamped and lie in their channels.
Then you put metal plates in and screw them up, and you twist them in order to avoid skewing them, and then you can glue the back cover, you can clean the old glue and you can degrease it.
- 📱 Checking the image for broken pixels.
- 🖐️ Multi-touch test (simultaneous touch with 10 fingers).
- 🔊 Checking the speakers and microphone after assembly.
- 📶 Test of Wi-Fi and cellular communication.
The final test involves testing all the functions of the smartphone: the camera, proximity sensors, vibration and volume. If you disassemble the phone, make sure that all the connectors are snapped to the end. Sometimes after assembly, there may be extra screws — a signal that some node is assembled incorrectly.