Xiaomi Mi Mix 3 is a breakthrough in mobile design thanks to its slider mechanism that hides front cameras. However, this complex design makes the repair and disassembly of the device extremely difficult for the untrained user. Unlike standard monoblocks, there are additional movable elements, magnets and specific plumes that require special attention during dismantling.
The challenge is that internal components, such as the battery or the charging connector, are blocked by multiple layers of protection and screws. Mishandling the slider mechanism can cause the slim plumes to break, which will put the machine out of order, so you need to carefully study the sequence of actions and prepare a specialized tool before you start work.
In this article, we will take a detailed look at each stage of disassembly of the Mi Mix 3, paying special attention to the safety and safety of functional units. You will learn what nuances the unplugging of the back cover has, how to properly disconnect the control board and what to look for when working with magnetic retainers. A competent approach will allow you to successfully replace the battery or display module without contacting the service center.
Tools and workplace preparation required
For high-quality and safe disassembly of the smartphone is not enough just to have a screwdriver at hand. the design of the Xiaomi Mi Mix 3 involves the use of a specific set of tools that will avoid damage to the body and internal components. First of all, you will need a set of precision screwdrivers, including crosses of different sizes and possibly flat for some screws.
Special attention should be paid to tools for working with adhesives. The back cover of the device is planted on a powerful layer of glue, and without heating it is impossible to remove it. Use a hair dryer or a special heating pad to soften the adhesive, but watch the temperature so that you do not damage it. OLED-You'll also need plastic mediators, a suction cup, and a thin line or string to initially separate the glass.
Workspace management is critical. All screws are best placed in order of their removal on a magnetic mat or in the cells of the organizer, marking the stages of work. Losing even one microscopic screw can lead to rattling of the case or leakage. Remember to completely discharge the battery before work or bring the charge to 25% to minimize the risk of fire in case of accidental damage.
- ๐ง Precision screwdriver kit (cross-hatch) PH000, PH00)
- ๐ก๏ธ dryer
- ๐งฉ Plastic shoulder blades, mediators and sucker
- ๐งต Thin string or guitar line for cutting glue
- ๐งฒ Magnetic mat or screw sorting container
Removal of the rear glass panel
The first and most risky step is to separate the back cover. In the Mi Mix 3, it's made of glass and is tightly glued around the perimeter. Start by heating the edges of the device with a hairdryer for 2-3 minutes, evenly warming the area along the frame. Don't hold the hairdryer too close so that the glass doesn't crack from the thermal shock.
After heating, apply a suction cup to the bottom of the back panel and pull carefully, creating a small gap. Insert a plastic mediator or a thin string into the resulting gap. The movements should be smooth, cutting, without jerks. Inside the body, especially in the upper part, there are plumes that are easily damaged by the sloppy movement of the tool.
โ ๏ธ Warning: Be extremely careful at the top of the smartphone where the slider mechanism is located.Deply inserting the tool can cause the main camera or sensor plume to rupture.
Move around the perimeter, gradually cutting the adhesive layer. If you feel strong resistance, warm up the area again with a hairdryer. After successfully detaching the lid, put it in a safe place, preferably on a soft surface to avoid scratching. Now you will see the internal structure of the device, protected by a decorative plastic lining.
Dismantling decorative lining and access to screws
And underneath the back of the glass, there's a large plastic plate that covers the main components and the battery, and it's mounted with a lot of screws around the perimeter and in the center, and you need to start by twisting out all the screws you can see using the appropriate screwdriver, and the number of screwdrivers can vary, so you have to look at the surface carefully.
Once the screws are removed, the pad won't be removed immediately, as it also has adhesive joint and latches. Carefully apply the plastic to the edges starting at the bottom. Don't put too much effort into not breaking the plastic locks. Under this cover are the plume connectors and the battery itself.
Importantly, under the plastic lining are also antenna modules and wireless charging contacts. If you unscrupulously remove these fragile elements, you can damage the inner surface of the lid for additional screws that can hold other components, such as the wireless charging module.
โ๏ธ Check before removing the lid
Disabling plumes and removing protective screens
Before you take out the battery or other components, you need to turn off the power, find the battery connector on the motherboard and gently disconnect it using a plastic blade, a critical step to prevent short circuits from further manipulation of the electronics.
Then you have to turn off the main plumes of the display and touchscreen, which are usually closed with metal shields that are screwed, unscrew the fasteners, remove the metal plates, and then disconnect the connectors. The movements should be directed upwards so that the contacts on the board do not damage.
| Component | Location. | Type of attachment | Features |
|---|---|---|---|
| Battery | Central part | Glue tape + connector | Requires heating to extract |
| Display. | The front | The plumes below. | Fragile OLED, afraid of pressure |
| Slider mechanism | Upper part | Screws + guides | A complex system of magnets |
| Charging charges | The bottom part | Screws + plume | Integrated with the speaker |
Once all the plumes are turned off, you can start dismantling the modules themselves. If your goal is to replace the display, you can now carefully separate the screen from the frame. If you change the battery, move to the next section. Remember, the motherboard in the Xiaomi Mi Mix 3 is complex and fastened at multiple points.
Replacement of the battery and work with the glue layer
The battery in the Mi Mix 3 is glued to the body fairly firmly. Remove it by reheating. Warm up the battery area with a hairdryer, but try not to heat the battery directly to avoid bloating. Use special pull strips if they are preserved, or gently blow the battery with a plastic card.
Do not use metal tools to pick the battery, as its puncture can cause instant fire. Act slowly, gradually separating the adhesive base from the body. After removing the old battery, clean the seat of glue residues with alcohol or a special solvent.
โ ๏ธ Warning: Do not attempt to bend or deform a new battery when installed.This can damage the internal structure and cause a quick failure.
To fix the new battery, use B-7000 double-sided tape or special adhesive tapes designed to repair smartphones. Apply the adhesive with a thin layer, let it dry a little (if it's liquid glue), and gently install the power cell in place. Connect the battery plume to the board only after final installation.
How to check the health of the battery?
Features of the slider mechanism
A unique part of the Xiaomi Mi Mix 3 is the slider, which consists of a movable top that drives on the guides, and magnets that lock position and allow automatic opening when lifted to the ear.
The plumes that connect the main board to the modules in the moving part (front cameras, proximity sensor, speaker) pass through special channels. They have a small margin of length, but it is limited. If you make a careless jerk, you can easily break these connections. When you build, make sure that the plumes are laid correctly and not clamped.
The magnets in the mechanism can interfere with some tools, attracting metal parts of screwdrivers. Be careful not to drop the screws deep inside the case, where they are difficult to reach. The slider mechanism also has plastic limiters that are easy to break under strong pressure.
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Rub the slider guides with alcohol at each disassembly. Dust and pile accumulated there can over time make the mechanism difficult or cause creaking.
Assembly of the device and verification of functionality
The assembly is done in reverse order, but with a number of nuances. Before twisting the screws, make sure that all the plumes sit tight and until the click. Make sure that no wires are clamped with the body or screws. Pay special attention to the plume of the slider - it must have free travel.
After you have the back cover installed and you have pre-fixed it (you can hold it temporarily with a rubber band), turn it on. Don't rush to stick it tight until you've made sure that the touchscreen, the sound, the vibration and, most importantly, the pull-out mechanism are working. Check the sensor response when you open the slider.
If everything is working correctly, apply a new layer of glue around the perimeter of the back cover (B-7000 or analog) and press it tightly. Lock the device with rubber bands or a load for 1-2 hours until the glue is completely dry. Extended glue, carefully remove with alcohol.
โ ๏ธ Warning: Check the tightness of the cover after assembly. If there are gaps, the water protection (if declared) will be broken, and dust may enter the case.
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Quality assembly depends not only on the order of action, but also on the purity of contact groups and the correct positioning of plumes in the narrow channels of the slider.