Modern car recorders from Xiaomi and sub-brands like 70mai or Yi are famous for their compact and minimalist design, which is often achieved by the complete absence of visible screws on the body. Owners face the need to open the device when the built-in battery fails, stick control buttons or need to replace a memory card stuck inside the slot. The process of dismantling such gadgets requires special care, since the plastic case is often assembled on dense latches and heat-resistant glue.
Before any manipulations, it is necessary to clearly realize that self-impaired leakage of the case almost always leads to the loss of the official warranty. However, if the device is no longer warranty serviced or breakage requires immediate intervention, competent disassembly is the only way to restore the functionality of the electronic filling. In this article, we will examine in detail the algorithm of actions, the necessary tools and the specific nuances of disassembling various models of auto recorders of the popular Chinese brand.
The challenge is that the engineers at the company use different assembly methods for different product lines, so you need to put a mediator in the back, and you need to heat up the hair dryer and use suction cups, and if you don't apply the right force, you can break the plastic ears of the mounts, or worse, damage the camera matrix plume, so it's important to prepare a good lighting workplace in advance and have patience.
Tools and workplace preparation required
To work with Xiaomi’s small-sized hardware, a standard set of screwdrivers can be useless, as screws often have specific hats or are hidden deep inside the structure. You will need a set of precision screwdrivers that includes cross bits of size PH0 and PH00, as well as flat slits with a width of 1-2 mm.
Special attention should be paid to tools for opening the body without damage. Metal blades of knives are better not to use, as they can easily damage plastic guides or scratch glossy plastic. The ideal solution would be plastic blades (poodgers), mediators or even an old plastic card cut diagonally, and you can also do without tweezers with curved ends for working with small plumes.
- 🔧 A set of precision screwdrivers with magnetic tips for screw twisting.
- 🎴 Plastic blades and mediators for careful separation of halves of the body.
- 🌡️ A hair dryer or heating platform to soften the adhesive layer under the stickers.
- 🔍 Loop or magnifying glass for inspection of small contacts and connectors.
The organization of space is critical: small screws have the ability to run around the table, and their loss can make assembly impossible. It is recommended to use a magnetic mat or a special card with cells where you will fold the fastener in the order of dismantling, which will help to avoid a situation where at the end of the assembly there are "extra" parts.
⚠️ Warning: Before starting work, be sure to disconnect the device from the power source and remove the memory card. Work with lithium polymer batteries requires caution: avoid punctures and excessive heating, as this can lead to fire.
Features of the design of the Xiaomi and 70mai housings
The engineering solutions used in Xiaomi DVRs are aimed at creating a monolithic device that can withstand temperature changes in the car. Most often, the body consists of two main parts: the front panel with a lens and a screen, and the rear part, where the main board is located. These parts can be connected by screws hidden under decorative plugs, or exclusively on latches.
In the 70mai Dash Cam Pro series and similar models, a combination type of attachment is often found. The screws can be located around the perimeter of the device and closed with rubber plugs that must be carefully removed with a thin object. In newer models such as the 70mai A500S, the screws can be completely hidden under the main sticker with the logo or technical information, which requires its partial peeling or neat cutting.
The plastic used by the manufacturer is usually of high quality, but at low temperatures it becomes brittle. If you are disassembling in a cold room, there is a risk of breaking the latches. It is recommended to let the device warm up to room temperature before work begins. It is also worth considering that thin plumes can pass inside the case connecting the control modules, the screen and the main board.
It is important to understand the architecture of the device: in most cases, the main board is fixed to a metal radiator or plastic frame, which in turn is nested in the outer casing. Dismounting the external elements does not always mean full access to the "inners." Sometimes you need to remove several layers of protection to get to the battery or connectors.
Step-by-step instructions for dismantling the body
The disassembly process begins with a careful external inspection. Find all the visible screws and plugs. If the screws are not present, most likely, the halves of the body are connected at the latches. Put the plastic blade in the joint between the front and rear panels and with easy effort run along the perimeter. A characteristic click will signal the successful splitting of the lock.
If the body doesn't lend itself, it might be glued together, so you need to carefully warm the perimeter of the device with a hair dryer to 60-70 degrees Celsius, don't hold the hair dryer too close to melt the plastic or the screen matrix, and then you'll do it again with the shoulder blade, trying not to make sharp jerks, and the movements will be smooth, progressive.
☑️ Checklist for disassembly preparations
When you remove the back cover, you'll see an internal device, often glued to the case or board, and you may need to remove it with a plastic tool, and you'll be very careful that you don't damage the battery shell, and if the battery is connected to the board with a connector, you need to disconnect it by pulling the plug carefully, not the wires.
To access the main board, you may need to unscrew the extra screws that hold it in place. Notice the plumes: they can be pressed by plastic locks. Lift the lock with your nail or tweezers, and the plume will be free. Never pull the plume behind the flexible part itself, only behind the rigid connector.
⚠️ Warning: When you separate the halves of the body, watch the plume of the display or buttons, if they are located on the removable part. A sharp jerk can lead to a break in the contacts, the restoration of which will require soldering and a microscope.
Replace the battery and eliminate typical malfunctions
One of the most common causes of disassembly is the failure of the built-in battery. Xiaomi DVRs typically use small-capacity lithium polymer batteries (200 to 500 mAh), which serve to save settings and correctly terminate when power is turned off, and over time they swell or lose capacity.
The standard sizes often vary, but the voltage is almost always 3.7V or 3.85V. The new battery must have a similar connector (usually JST 1.25mm or 2.0mm) and dimensions to fit it into the designated compartment. If the new battery is thicker, its installation can lead to deformation of the housing.
| Type of malfunction | Probable cause | Elimination method | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|
| Not holding the charge. | Degradation of Li-Pol element | Battery replacement | Low. |
| Not included. | Breaking of the plume or button | Cleaning contacts / Replacing the button | Medium |
| It's resetting time. | Internal battery discharged | Battery replacement | Low. |
| Artifacts in video | The matrix plume's departure | Reconnecting the plume | Tall. |
Another common problem is sticking the power button, and the button mechanism in these devices is often represented by a tact switch, which eventually gets dust and moisture, and once the body is opened, the button can be gently blown with compressed air or washed with a Cleaner contact (isopropyl alcohol), in some cases requiring a complete replacement of the microswitch with a soldering iron.
How to check a new battery before installation?
Assembly of the device and verification of functionality
The assembly is done in reverse disassembly order. Make sure all plumes are securely fixed in the connectors and the locking connectors are lowered down. The battery should be glued to a two-way tape (usually complete with a new battery or a car 3M) so that it does not dangle inside the case when vibrating while driving.
When you connect the halves of the body, first snap the corners, then sequentially walk around the perimeter, pressing until the click. Don't put too much effort: if the halves don't come together, then there's an extra screw left somewhere, the plume has fallen under the plastic or the connector is not fully inserted. Forced compression can lead to cracks.
💡
Use a thin layer of silicone sealant or B-7000 glue around the perimeter of the case during final assembly, if you plan to operate the recorder in extreme temperature conditions, this will return the device to tightness.
Once assembled, connect the device to power in the car or via USB. Check if the display lights up, if recording begins. Go to the settings menu and check the date and time are up to date. If time is reset after switching off, the battery is not connected or faulty.
💡
The quality assembly is characterized by the absence of creaks and gaps. If after assembly the device makes extraneous sounds when shaking, reopen it and check the attachment of internal components.
Common mistakes in self-repair
The biggest mistake is using a metal tool to tamper with the body, which is guaranteed to leave traces and can damage the circuit board's conductive paths if the blade slips. Always use plastic. The second mistake is ignoring the temperature. Trying to disassemble cold plastic in winter often ends up breaking the latches.
Many people forget to disconnect the battery before weeping or replacing other components on the board, which can short circuit and cause the power controller to fail, and the electrical safety of compact devices has not been canceled, even if the voltage is low.
There's also a lot of problems with losing screws or getting them mixed up, and screws of different lengths screwed into the wrong holes can pierce the board right through or not reach the thread, leaving the body skewed.