Xiaomi Smartmi Antibacterial Humidifier is a popular device among smart appliance owners thanks to its antibacterial system and integration into the Mi Home ecosystem. However, over time, even such a reliable device requires cleaning or minor repairs: from replacing the membrane to removing scale from the ultrasonic emitter. Disassembling the humidifier is not the most difficult task, but requires care: improper actions can damage the sealing gums or electronic board.
Many users are afraid to disassemble the equipment themselves, for fear of breaking fragile parts or losing the warranty. But if the humidifier is no longer warranty, and the service center takes a cleaning amount comparable to the cost of a new device, disassembling with their own hands becomes a smart decision. In this article, step-by-step instructions with a photo, a list of necessary tools, and the typical mistakes that beginners make.
Before starting work, make sure that the humidifier is disconnected from the network for at least 30 minutes - this is the time it takes to completely discharge the capacitors on the board. Also prepare the workplace: a table covered with light cloth is ideal (it is easier to notice fallen screws or small details). If you are disassembling a deep cleaning device, purchase citric acid or a specialized scaling tool in advance - ordinary water with soap will not help here.
Preparation for disassembly: tools and security measures
The Smartmi Antibacterial Humidifier doesn't need professional tools to disassemble, but some tools are essential.
- 🔧 Screwdriver cross (size) PH1 or PH0 — depends on the model; check the photo of the screws at the bottom of the device).
- 📏 Plastic mediator or guitar mediator - for careful latching.
- 🧴 Isopropyl alcohol 90%+ — for cleaning contacts and fees (if required).
- 🧽 Soft brush (for example, for drawing) – to remove dust from the fan and membrane.
- 🔋 Multimeter (optional) – to check the power supply chain if the device is not turned on.
Important: don't use metal screwdrivers to tamper with plastic parts, it will lead to chips and cracks. If you don't have a mediator at hand, take an old bank card. Also prepare the screw containers (you can use cells from chocolate candy) - this will help you not confuse them when you build them.
⚠️ Warning: If the humidifier was in a high humidity room (such as a bathroom), dry it for at least 12 hours in a warm place before disassembling.
Another nuance is the antibacterial coating on the inside of the tank, which you can't clean with abrasives or hard brushes, or the coating will wear off and the device will lose its properties. For such surfaces, only a soft sponge and specialized detergents (for example, Karcher) are suitable. RM 519).
Removal of the upper cover and water tank
The first step is to separate the top part, where the water tank is located, and the main thing is not to apply excessive force, since the lid is attached to plastic latches, which are easy to break.
Step instructions:
- Turn the humidifier upside down and remove the circular silicone pad from the bottom of the tank, and there are screws underneath.
- Turn 4 screws (usually in corners). In some versions there may be 5 screws - check the center.
- Carefully apply the cover to the mediator, starting at the back (where the power connector is) and the latches should move away with a characteristic click.
- Lift the lid and unplug the plume of the water level sensor (it is attached to the board with a small connector).
If the lid doesn't lend itself, don't try to rip it off - you've probably missed a screw or a latch. Check the case for hidden mounts. In the Smartmi Antibacterial Humidifier 2, an extra screw can hide under a serial number sticker - it'll have to be carefully unstuck.
All screws at the bottom are twisted.|Water sensor plume disconnected|At hand a latch mediator.|Photo of the insides taken (for assembly)-->
After removing the cover, you will see:
- 💧 Water tank with antibacterial coating.
- 🔌 Electronic board with connectors for fan and ultrasonic emitter.
- 🌀 Fan (usually black, with blades).
- 🔊 Ultrasonic membrane module is the most sensitive part of the device.
⚠️ Note: If the board shows traces of oxidation (greenish coating) or bloated capacitors, further disassembly without electronic experience is not recommended.
Extraction and cleaning of the ultrasonic membrane
The ultrasonic membrane is the heart of the humidifier, and it converts water into fine vapor, and over time, scales form on the membrane, which causes a decrease in productivity and white coating on the furniture, so that you can get to it.
1. disconnect the membrane power connector from the board (usually a white or yellow plume).
2. Unscrew 2 screws fixing the metal plate of the membrane.
3. Carefully tuck the plate on the side and remove it. Under it you will see a round ceramic membrane.
For cleaning the membrane:
- 🍋 Prepare the solution: 1 tbsp. spoonful of citric acid per 100 ml of warm water.
- 🧽 Submerge the membrane in solution on 15-20 minutes (no longer, otherwise the cover will be damaged!).
- 🧼 With a soft toothbrush, remove the remaining scale. Don't rub too hard!
- 💧 Wash under running water and dry in air (not a phenomenon!).
If the membrane is cracked or chipped, it will have to be replaced. Original parts for Smartmi can be found on AliExpress for Smartmi Humidifier Membrane. 500-800 ruble.
What happens if you don't clean the membrane?
| Symptoms. | Probable cause | Decision |
|---|---|---|
| The humidifier works, but the steam is barely noticeable | Scalling contamination of the membrane | Citric acid cleaning or membrane replacement |
| There was a white plaque around the device | Using hard water | Cleaning the membrane + water-filtering |
| The humidifier makes a loud squeak. | Getting a foreign object into the fan | Disassembly and cleaning of blades |
| Not turned on, indicators not burning | Problems with food costs | Multimeter check or replacement of the board |
Cleaning of the antibacterial module and fan
The antibacterial module in Smartmi is UV-It's a lamp or a coating with silver ions, depending on the model, and its mission is to destroy bacteria in the water, so if the module is contaminated, the efficiency of the humidifier drops, and harmful microorganisms can enter the air.
To clean the module:
- Disconnect the power connector UV-Lamps (if you have one in your model).
- Wipe the lamp with a cotton swab dipped in isopropyl alcohol. Don't use water!
- If the module is a mesh with antibacterial coating, wash it under a stream of water without detergents.
The fan shall be cleaned in the same manner:
- 🌀 Remove the protective grille (usually it is attached to the latches).
- 🧹 Remove dust from the blades with a soft brush.
- 🔍 Check if there is a backlash fan on the axis - if there is, you will need to replace the bearing.
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If after cleaning the fan still makes noise, lubricate its axis 1-2 You just have to scroll the blades by hand and drop the grease on the shaft.
A critical mistake many users make is to try to wash the antibacterial module with aggressive detergents (such as Domestos), which destroys the protective coating and renders the humidifier useless in fighting bacteria.
Disassembly and diagnostics of electronic board
If the humidifier does not turn on or malfunctions, the problem can be hidden in the electronic board. its disassembly requires special care - it is easy to damage tracks or elements.
To get to the fare:
- Disconnect all plumes and connectors (take a picture of their location!).
- Unscrew the screws that attach the board to the body (usually their 3-4).
- Carefully raise the fee and inspect it for the subject: 🔥 Bloated capacitors (they look like barrels with a convex upper part). 💨 Darkened or burned tracks. 💧 Traces of corrosion (green plaque).
Typical faults of the board and their elimination:
- 🔋 Not switched on: check the fuse (usually located next to the power connector). If you burn out, replace it with a similar one.
- 🌡️ Spontaneous shutdown: possibly overheat sensor triggered. Check the heat paste on the radiator (replace if necessary).
- 📶 No response to buttons: the problem may be in the control chip.
⚠️ Note: If you do not have experience with a soldering iron, do not try to replace the elements on the board yourself. 1500-2000 ruble.
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Before assembling the board, make sure all capacitors are correctly polarized. The entangled capacitor will swell when first turned on and may damage other elements.
Assembly of the moisturiser: procedure and verification
The assembly of the device should take place in reverse order, but taking into account several nuances:
- 🔌 Connect the plumes after installing the board in the case - so it is easier to avoid overbending.
- 🔧 Twisting the screws cross-cross to avoid skewing the cover.
- 💧 Before the first inclusion, pour distilled water into the tank - this will help to wash the residues of cleaning products.
Post-assembly check:
- Turn the humidifier on the network and wait for the indicator to light up.
- Make sure the fan rotates without any extraneous sounds.
- Check the ultrasonic membrane - visible steam should appear.
- If the device is equipped with Wi-Fi, connect it to the Mi Home and check for remote control.
If the humidifier does not work after assembly:
- 🔍 Check if you have forgotten to connect any of the plumes.
- 🔌 Make sure all the connectors sit tightly in the nests.
- 📋 Check with photos taken before the disassembly.
Frequent Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
Even experienced users sometimes make mistakes when disassembling Smartmi Antibacterial Humidifier.
1. Damage to sealing rubber.
The rubber between the tank and the housing ensures tightness, if it is broken or installed incorrectly, the water will leak. When assembled, lubricate the gum with silicone grease, which will prolong its life.
2. Mixed screws.
The humidifier uses screws of different lengths. If you screw a short screw into a place intended for a long one, it won't fix the part, and the device will rattle. Store the screws in separate containers with signatures.
3. Cleaning the membrane with abrasives.
Some users try to remove the scale with a knife or sandpaper. This leads to microcracks, and the membrane fails through the 1-2 Use only chemical methods (citric acid, vinegar).
4. Ignoring the check of fees.
If the humidifier wasn't working before the disassembly, and you didn't check the board, the build won't solve the problem. Always diagnose the electronic part if the device wasn't turned on.
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If the humidifier starts spraying water with white flakes after cleaning, it means the membrane is damaged, it needs to be replaced, and further operation will lead to a breakdown of the pump.