The Xiaomi Smartmi Air Humidifier is one of the most popular devices for maintaining a comfortable microclimate in the house. Over time, even the most reliable equipment requires maintenance: cleaning from scale, changing filters or minor repairs. However, disassembling this gadget has its own features, which the manufacturer does not always disclose in official documentation.
In this article, you will find a step-by-step manual with visual cues that will help you gently dismantle the case, get to the internal components and avoid typical errors. 2/2S/3) And they added some unique tips that are not in the standard manuals, and they focused on the hidden latches in the bottom of the body, which cause damage to the body. 80% breakage.
Preparation for disassembly: tools and security measures
Before you start dismantling, make sure that the humidifier is completely disconnected from the mains and the water is drained from the tank. Even residual moisture can cause a short circuit when in contact with electronic components.
- ๐ง Plastic spatula (mediator) or a special tool for disassembling smartphones
- โก Screwdriver cross (PH0 or PH1) screws of internal modules
- ๐งด Isopropyl alcohol (70%+) Cleaning contacts if repairs are planned
- ๐ธ Smartphone for photographing the dismantling stages (useful when reassembling)
- ๐งค Nitrile gloves โ protection from residues of chemical cleaners and sharp edges of plastic
Note that Smartmi Air Humidifier 2S and later use child-protected screws (triangular head). These may require a special Y0.6 bit. If such a tool is not available, you can gently tuck the screw with a flat screwdriver, but the risk of hitting the screwdriver increases.
โ ๏ธ Warning: Do not use metal tools to separate plastic latches! Even a small scratch on the body can become a source of crack during subsequent assemblies / disassemblies.
Removal of the top panel and water tank
So, to start with, the simplest step is to dismantle the removable parts, and in Smartmi Air Humidifier models, the top panel with touch buttons is attached to the base using magnetic locks and two plastic latches on the sides.
- Turn the device with the top of it to you. Press the Power button and hold it for 3 seconds to make sure it's completely shut down.
- Take the top panel on both sides and pull up with a little effort. It should be a characteristic click.
- After separation of the panel, put it aside, do not pull the wires - they are connected to the main board.
- Remove the water tank by pulling it vertically. There's a sealing ring at the bottom of the tank -- check it for integrity.
At this point, the key is not to confuse the sequence. Many users try to remove the tank first and then the panel, which damages the backlight plume (it passes under the tank). If the plume does move, do not try to insert it back by force - you better fix the position in the photo and contact the service.
Make sure the device is off |Detach the power cord |Prepare a soft surface for laying parts |Photograph the initial position of the plumes-->
Dismantling the lower part of the body: hidden latches and traps
The most difficult step is to unplug the bottom of the body, where the main electronics and the fan are hidden, and here the manufacturer used a dual locking system: 4 screws under the rubber legs and 6 plastic latches around the perimeter.
- Turn the device upside down. Tuck the rubber legs (there are 4 of them) with a flat screwdriver, and there are screws underneath.
- Turn the screws, but not to the end! Leave them in the holes for 1-2 revolutions, so as not to lose.
- Insert a plastic blade into the gap between the top and bottom of the case (start from the side where there are no connectors).
- Carefully drive the shoulder blade around the perimeter, pressing the latches. With the right force, you will hear a series of clicks.
Pay special attention to the area near the power connector - here the latch is recessed deeper and easy to miss. If the body does not lend itself, do not increase the force! You probably missed one of the screws or the latch. In the Smartmi Air Humidifier 3 models, an additional metal plate under the fan is added - it must be removed by unscrewing 2 PH1 screws.
| Moisturizer model | Number of screws | Latch type | Features |
|---|---|---|---|
| Smartmi Air Humidifier 1 | 4 screws | 6 plastic | The latches are fragile, break when pressed hard. |
| Smartmi Air Humidifier 2/2S | 4 screws + 2 under the sticker | 8 plastic | Additional fixation of the humidity sensor plume |
| Smartmi Air Humidifier 3 | 6 screws (2 under the legs, 4 under the sticker) | 6 plastic + 2 metallic | metal plate under the fan |
โ ๏ธ Note: Smartmi Air Humidifier models 2S And newer, there's an extra screw underneath the back sticker, and if you rip it off, the warranty is void, even if you don't damage the internal components.
Disassembly of internal components: board, fan, ultrasonic membrane
Once you remove the bottom cover, you'll see three major nodes: the main control board, the fan, and the ultrasonic membrane, and they need to be dismantled carefully, because all of the components are connected by fragile plumes.
- ๐ฑ Disconnect the battery connector (black, 2-pin) โ It's on the left of the board. Pull by the plastic tongue, not by the wires!
- ๐ Turn off sensor plumes (white) 4-pin grey 6-pin). They are fixed with latches - lift them up before extraction.
- ๐ ๏ธ Unscrew 3 screws, fastening the board to the body (in Smartmi models 3 - 4 screws).
The fan is attached to 2 PH1 screws and an additional latch on top. When removing it, pay attention to the foam pad - it extinguishes vibrations. If the gasket is worn, it can be replaced with a similar one from computer coolers (thickness 3-4 mm). The ultrasonic membrane is fixed with 4 PH0 screws and a sealed ring. Never touch the membrane with your bare hands - fatty traces reduce its life by 30%.
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If the membrane is covered with white plaque, do not clean it with abrasives! Use a solution of citric acid (1 tbsp. spoon per 100 ml of water) and a soft brush.
Cleaning and Diagnosis: What You Can Do on Your Own
Now that the device is disassembled, you can start maintenance, and here's a list of things that are safe to do at home:
- ๐งผ Cleaning the ultrasonic membrane from scale (see tip above).
- ๐จ Blowing the fan with compressed air (pressure not exceeding 3 bar!).
- ๐ง Replacement of tank sealing rings (article) MDY-08-24 model 2/2S).
- ๐ Checking the contacts of the board for oxidation (clean with isopropyl alcohol).
- ๐ Calibration of the humidity sensor (only if you have experience with a multimeter!).
When diagnosing malfunctions, pay attention to the following symptoms:
- ๐ด Humidifier not included: check the fuse on the board (marking) F1 250V 1A).
- ๐ก The lighting does not work: check the plume LED-ribbon.
- ๐ต Weak steam at maximum power: possible wear of the membrane or clogging of ducts.
If you have swollen capacitors on the board or traces of burns, you should trust the specialists to repair further. Smartmi models use low ESR capacitors, and their replacement requires a soldering station with temperature control.
How to check the membrane without assembling the device
Utilizer Assembly: Reverse Sequence and Testing
The assembly should take place in reverse order, but taking into account several critical points:
- Make sure all the O-rings are in place and not twisted.
- Connect the plumes to the board before fixing screws - so it is easier to control the position.
- When installing the upper panel, first wind up the latches on the side of the connectors, then press on the magnetic retainers.
- Before the first turn on, pour water and check the tightness - put a paper towel under the device for 10 minutes.
After assembly, perform test inclusion:
- Start the device in Auto mode (automatic).
- Check the lighting and touch buttons.
- Make sure the steam is released evenly (without "spitting" water).
- Put your hand in the air vents, you should feel the airflow.
โ ๏ธ Warning: If after assembly the humidifier makes an uncharacteristic noise (screaming, vibration), immediately turn it off! most likely, the fan touches the body or membrane installed curve.
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The most common assembly error is the compression of the humidity sensor plume, which leads to incorrect readings and constant operation of the device at maximum power.
Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
Even experienced craftsmen sometimes make mistakes when disassembling Smartmi Air Humidifier, and here are the most common ones and ways to prevent them:
- ๐ง Torn screws: Use a magnetic-tipped screwdriver and don't apply excess force.If the screw doesn't go, drop WD-40 And wait 5 minutes.
- ๐ Broken latches: Heat the body with a hairdryer (temperature) 50-60ยฐC) before disconnection, plastics will become more elastic.
- ๐ฅ Short circuit: Never plug the board into power without a connected membrane - this can burn driver transistors.
- ๐ง Water hitting the board: After cleaning the membrane, dry the device 24 hours before assembly.
Another common problem is the loss of small parts (gass, screws). To avoid this, use a magnetic mat or container with compartments. If you do lose the screw, do not replace it with a "similar" one! Smartmi humidifiers use non-standard screws with threads - M2.5ร0.45.