Modern air purifiers from the Xiaomi brand and its sub-brand Smartmi have gained popularity due to their minimalist design and high efficiency. However, in order for the device to work silently and correctly measure air quality, it periodically requires maintenance. Owners often wonder how to get to internal components without damaging fragile plastic latches.
Disassembly of the cleaner may be required to thoroughly clean the laser scanner, replace worn rubber seals or eliminate extraneous engine noise. A sloppy opening of the body often leads to mount failure, so it is important to understand the design of a particular model before starting work. In this article, we will look in detail at the process of dismantling popular Air Purifier models.
It is worth noting that the warranty seals on many devices are located so that their violation leads to loss of warranty. If your device is in warranty service, it is better to contact an authorized service center. However, if the warranty has already expired or the case is not warranty, self-disassembly will save money and prolong the life of the gadget.
Workplace preparation and necessary tools
Before you start dismantling, you need to have a comfortable space. You need a table with good lighting to see the small parts and fasteners. Losing screws or damaging plumes due to poor visibility is a common mistake of beginners. Prepare all tools in advance so that you don't get distracted in the process.
The Smartmi cleaner housing doesn't usually require a sophisticated professional tool: The main effort will be required to gently snap the plastic clips that hold the outer grille and sensor cover.Using metal objects without protection can leave scratches on the glossy plastic.
☑️ Disassembly tools
Fat spots from the fingers on the air quality sensor can lead to incorrect readings of PM2.5. it is recommended to use antistatic gloves or thoroughly wash and defat your hands before contact with electronics.
Design features of Xiaomi and Smartmi models
The air purifiers line has a similar architecture, but there are important nuances depending on the generation of the device. Models like Air Purifier 2/3/Pro and Smartmi Air Purifier have a cylindrical body, where the top is a removable grille, inside is a fan with an engine, an electronics unit and a filter compartment.
The key element that requires access is often the laser sensor module, which is located in the side or back of the device and is closed with a small lid. This is where dust accumulates, which distorts the data on air pollution. The design of the sensor involves a small hole for air intake, which over time clogs.
Differences in anchorages
You also have to consider the location of the control panel. OLED-The display is connected by a thin plume that is easily damaged by a sharp jerk of the top cover. Always check for connections before completely separating the parts of the body.
Dismantling the upper grille and access to the filter
The first step is always to remove the top cover, which is necessary to replace the filter and gain access to the internal screws. On most Xiaomi models, the cover is held on magnets or tight latches around the perimeter. Sharp tugging up can break the plastic ears of the mounts.
To remove it safely, you should flip the device upside down or put it on a soft surface on your side. Find process holes or indentations where you can gently insert a plastic blade. Move the tool along the junction, gradually snapping the locks around.
⚠️ Warning: Never use a knife or metal screwdriver to lash the front lid, sharp edges will instantly leave deep scratches on white plastic that will be impossible to hide.
Once the lid is removed, you'll see a HEPA cylindrical filter, which you need to remove to access the engine and the bottom of the body, and notice the orientation of the filter, and when you put it back in, it's important to keep the right position, otherwise the airflow will be disrupted.
Disassembly of the body: screws and hidden latches
Once the filter is removed, you will have a view of the engine and the internal structure, and the base of the device may have the main fasteners, some Smartmi versions may have them hidden under rubber legs or decorative plugs, and carefully examine the bottom of the body from all sides.
To unscrew the screws, use a screwdriver with a matching slither, pressing it tightly against the screw head so as not to tear the notches. If the screws don't twist, don't use excessive force - perhaps sourdough threading or a thread retainer is used. Light heat with a hairdryer can help, but be careful with plastic parts.
The next step is to separate the main column and the base, and often these are plastic latches that are located around the inner perimeter, carefully bend them with a blade as you move around, and a characteristic click will signal the successful release of the lock.
| Type of attachment | Location. | Tool. | Risk of damage |
|---|---|---|---|
| M3/M4 screws | Bottom panel, under the legs | Cross screwdriver | Breaking the carving, licking the hat |
| Plastic clips | Body junction perimeter | Plastic spatula | Breaking of ear attachment |
| Magnets | Top cover. | Hands. | Low (scratches) |
| plumes | Under the control panel | Tweezers | Contact break, damage to tracks |
Maintenance of air quality sensor and fan
One of the main reasons for disassembly is cleaning the PM2.5 sensor, which is a small black module with a hole, and over time, dust accumulates inside, and the device begins to show high levels of contamination even in a clean room, use a dry cotton swab or a can of compressed air to clean.
The laser module is very sensitive. Do not wipe the lens inside the sensor with alcohol or wet cloth unless the instructions say otherwise. It is best to carefully blow the air supply channels. Also check the condition of the fan: the blades can become dusty, causing vibration and noise.
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To clean the fan blades without completely disassembling the motor, you can use a long brush for drawing or a cotton swab slightly soaked in isopropyl alcohol.
If you find that the engine is making a grind, the lubricant in the bearings may have dried up, which requires a spot application of silicone lubrication to the rotation axis. Do not use WD-40 or oil, as they can break down the plastic or collect even more dust.
⚠️ Warning: When cleaning the sensor, do not touch the internal electronics with metal tweezers.Static electricity or short circuit can permanently disable the control board.
Assembly of the device and check of performance
The assembly is reversed. Make sure all plumes are connected before clicking and are fixed with clamping slats, if any. When connecting parts of the housing, first hook the opposite side of the hinges, then smoothly press the perimeter until all latches are closed.
Don't twist the screws right away. First, make all the screws so that the parts fall into place without skewing, and then tighten them evenly cross-cross, and this will prevent gaps and creaks of the body when the fan is working.
Once assembled, turn the cleaner on. Pay attention to the indicators: if an error is burning or the device does not start, you will have to disassemble it again and check the connections. Pay special attention to the engine contacts and the Wi-Fi module board.
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The main criterion for successful assembly is the absence of extraneous sounds when working at maximum speed and the correct readings of the air quality sensor after 5-10 minutes of operation.
Watch the behavior of the device during operation. If after some time after assembly there was a whistle, perhaps some latch did not fully fit into place or the screw touches the engine body. Vibration may also indicate an uneven tightening of the anchorage of the lower cover.