Xiaomi’s brand popularity has spread far beyond smartphones to reach the market for affordable and quality audio. Wired models like the Piston 3, Piston 4 or In-Ear Headphones Pro often make great sound, but eventually fail. A cable break at a plug, a wheezing speaker, or a fallen microphone are typical problems that require intervention.
Disassembling these devices is a delicate process that requires precision and design understanding. Unlike wireless models, wired models are often assembled on latches or by tight fit without visible screws. The purpose of this article is to provide a comprehensive guide to safely disassembling for subsequent repair or replacement of components.
Before you start active, you need to prepare the workplace and tools. You should not try to disassemble headphones "on the knee" or sharp objects like a knife, as there is a high risk of damage to the internal membranes or break the thinnest wires. It is critical to understand that most Xiaomi models are assembled by ultrasonic welding, which makes disassembly irreversible without damaging the external seams.
Tools and workplace preparation
A standard home toolbox may not be enough to successfully perform an audio-discovery operation, because microelectronic screws often have custom hats, you'll need high-quality lighting and preferably a magnifying glass or a magnifying glass to see fine details.
The main tool will be a thin metal blade or a special mediator to open the case, you can use an old plastic card, cut into thin strips, so as not to scratch the glossy plastic. PH00 or PH000.
☑️ Disassembly tools
And you also need a soldering iron if you're going to replace the plug or solder the wires inside the capsule, and the soldering iron sting is going to be fine, and you can use a magnetic holder or a piece of plasticine to fix the screws, so that the parts don't get lost on the table.
Features of the design of headphones Xiaomi
Xiaomi engineers use several types of assembly in their wired models. The most common design is where the front and back of the cup are threaded or tightly fit with internal latches. In the Piston series, there is often a metal body that is more difficult to mechanically affect without traces.
The internal device is usually a dynamic emitter, a board with a microphone (if there is a remote control), and a cable management system. The cable is inserted into the housing through a special hole and often fixed by glue or plastic clamps, and the break in the chain most often occurs at the point of entry of the wire into the housing.
⚠️ Note: In some budget models, the cable can be soldered directly to the speaker winding without interconnects, making it difficult to replace the wire by requiring complete soldering of the contacts on the coil itself.
Consider that metal-body models like the Piston 4 use microscopic screws hidden under decorative pads or rubber shock absorbers to fix them, and they're the first step in disassembling them, and plastic models like the Basic version are most often held on tight latches around the perimeter.
Disassembly process: step-by-step instructions
The first step is to take a close look at the outer surface, swipe your finger across the seam of the body parts, and if you feel a dent or see notches under the screwdriver, it means that the design involves unscrewing, and if you have a smooth seam with no visible holes, it is likely that the body is assembled on latches or glue.
For models with latches, you need to find a thin slit. Carefully insert a thin knife blade or a plastic blade. Move around the perimeter, slightly swiping the tool to unbundle the latches. Don't put too much effort into one point, it can break the plastic. Act consistently, snapping the clamps around.
💡
Heat the headphone body with a hair dryer to a temperature of 40-50 degrees. The plastic will become softer, and the glue (if any) will loosen the grip, making it easier to open without damage.
Once the outer cover is removed, you'll have access to the speaker and the board, and it's important not to pull abruptly, because the wires can be short. Look at the brazing area of the cable. If the cliff breaks, you'll see the wire detached or the contact oxidized. To extract the speaker, you may need to gently tuck it around the edges.
Replacement of the plug and repair of the cable
The most common fault is a cable fracture at the plug itself (jack 3.5 mm). Repair consists of trimming the damaged area and installing a new connector. To do this, the old plug is cut off, and the insulation is removed from the wire. It is important to correctly identify the channels: usually the left channel, the right channel, the common wire (ground) and sometimes the microphone.
When soldering a new plug, you must observe color markings, which may differ from cable manufacturer to cable manufacturer. The cleaned wires should be silted and soldered quickly to the appropriate contacts of the new Jack, so as not to overheat the insulation. After soldering, it is better to isolate the contacts with thermal shrinkage.
| Color of wire | Regular appointment | Action in rationing |
|---|---|---|
| Copper (no insulation) | Earth (GND) | Soldier to the longest contact |
| Green. | Right channel (R) | Solder to medium contact |
| Red. | Left channel (L) | Sawn to a short contact |
| Blue/Yellow | Microphone | Solder to additional contact |
Once soldered, assemble the plug case and check the operability with a multimeter or connect to the sound source. If the sound has appeared and became stereo, the repair can be considered successful. The cable inside the earphone case should also be fixed with a drop of glue to prevent a repeat break.
Repair of speakers and membranes
If the sound is gone or wheezing is present, the problem may lie in the speaker itself. Xiaomi wired headphones use dynamic emitters where the sound is created by the vibration of the membrane; damage to the membrane, moisture or sulfur can disrupt its mobility; visually inspect the diffuser for breaks or dents.
Often wheezing is caused not by breakdown, but by pollution. The speaker mesh can be cleaned neatly with a soft brush dipped in alcohol. If the membrane is torn, you will need to replace the emitter. It is difficult to find the original speaker, so you often choose a similar size and resistance (usually 16-32 Ohms).
⚠️ Warning: When changing the speaker, strictly monitor the polarity of the connection. The mixed plus and minus will lead to antiphase, which will make the sound flat and lose bass.
To replace, old wires are neatly soldered and new ones are soldered to the contacts of the fresh speaker. It is important not to overheat the speaker body, because the glue holding the magnetic system can melt and the magnet will fall off. Assembly is done in reverse order with a reliable fixation of all elements.
Assembly and final inspection
The final step is to assemble the body. If the model was on the screws, twist them, but don't pull them over so as not to break the thread in the plastic. If the body was held on the latches, connect the halves to a characteristic click around the perimeter. For models that were opened with a violation of the integrity of the seam, you will need glue.
Use a special adhesive for electronics, such as the B-7000 or T-7000, apply it in a thin layer at the junction, avoiding getting inside the speaker, after connecting the parts, the device should be fixed with a gum for 12-24 hours until the glue is completely dry.
How to glue the body if there is no special glue?
The final test includes testing all the sound channels, microphone and control buttons (if any). Connect the headphones to your smartphone and play a track with a wide frequency range. The absence of wheezing, distortion and balance of channels indicates a quality work.
💡
High-quality disassembly and assembly require patience: the main thing is not to damage thin wires and keep the housing tight to protect against moisture.