How to disassemble the case from headphones Xiaomi Mi True Wireless Earphones

Modern wireless headphones from Xiaomi have proven to be reliable and affordable devices, but over time even high-quality equipment requires maintenance. The most common problem faced by owners of Mi True Wireless Earphones is the failure of the battery inside the charging case. The device stops holding a charge or refuses to charge the headphones, although the ears themselves can be completely serviceable. In such situations, the user is faced with the question of the feasibility of repair, especially given that the cost of a new case is often a significant part of the price of the entire set.

Self-disassembly of the case allows you not only to save money, but also to extend the life of the gadget, replacing the worn-out battery with a new one. However, this process requires care, because the design is made on the principle of a monoblock without visible screws. Manufacturers specifically hide fasteners to provide protection from moisture and dust, and give the device an aesthetic appearance.

In this article, we will look at the steps of dismantling, identify hidden screws and understand the nuances of working with adhesive joints. You will learn what tools will be required to work and how to avoid damage to plastic latches. It is important to understand that any interference with the design of the device removes the warranty, so you need to act carefully. If you are willing to take risks to restore the functionality of the accessory, then follow the recommendations below.

Tools and workplace preparation required

Before you start dismantling, you need to have a comfortable workspace. You need a table with good lighting to see the small details and not lose them in the process. Workplace organization is critical, because screws in such devices are often microscopic and can easily get lost among the pile or fall on the floor. It is recommended to use a magnetic mat or small containers to sort the fastener by dismantling stages.

The main tool for opening the case will be a thin metal scalpel or a special mediator to open the electronics. Plastic cards may also be useful, but the metal is more effective at dealing with a dense adhesive layer. You will also need a hair dryer or heating platform to soften the adhesive that holds the halves of the body together. Without preheating, the plastic can crack at the joint, making assembly impossible again.

To unscrew screws, which often hide under rubber plugs or stickers, you need a quality cross screwdriver size PH00 or PH000. Sometimes screws can be closed with seals that have to be carefully cut. You should not use rough tools, as they can damage the thread or break the hats of the screws, which will complicate further repairs.

• 🔧 Thin metal scalpel or blade for scaling the body.
• 🌡️ Hair dryer or heating platform for softening glue.
• 🔍 Screwdriver with a set of bits PH00/PH000 micro-screw.
• 📎 Tweezers with antistatic coating for working with a board.
• 🧲 Magnetic tray or organizer for small parts.

⚠️ Attention: Use of blunt tools or excessive force in the opening can lead to irreversible chipping on the plastic, which will violate the tightness of the case.

The Anatomy of the Charging Case and the Search for Hidden Spinning

Xiaomi's charging case design looks monolithic, but actually consists of two main halves connected by glue and screws. The hidden fastener is usually located in recesses that are closed by rubber legs or decorative stickers. The first step should always be a careful visual inspection of the outside of the device in bright light. Often users miss screws under the logo or in the area of the lid hinges.

In the Mi True Wireless Earphones series, the screws are most often hidden under round rubber shock absorbers at the bottom of the case, which must be carefully removed with a thin needle, trying not to break the rubber. Once the plugs are removed, you can access the mainboard and battery compartment screws, and if there are no screws, then the design is held exclusively on glue and plastic latches around the perimeter.

Special attention should be paid to the area of the hinge of the lid. This is where long screws often run through the entire body. The screws must be removed strictly perpendillary, so as not to break the thread in the plastic racks. If the screw is tight, you can slightly warm the area with a hairdryer, but not overheat, so as not to melt the plastic. After twisting all the visible elements, you can move to the separation of the body.

The process of opening the body and separation of halves

Once you remove all the visible fasteners, the most important step is to split the body, and the plastic in the docking areas is filled with glue that needs to be softened, and this uses a hair dryer: warm the perimeter of the case for 2-3 minutes, constantly moving the flow of hot air so that one point does not overheat. The temperature should be sufficient to soften the glue, but safe for the lithium polymer battery inside.

Insert a thin scalpel blade or mediator into the junction between the halves at the USB connector or the opposite side. Move the tool along the seam, neatly cutting the adhesive layer. Don't try to sharply crack the body, act progressively, going around a circle several times. The characteristic crack of breaking glue will signal that the process is going right. If the case does not diverge, then you missed some screw.

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Warm up the case evenly on all sides to avoid deformation of the plastic. Local overheating can leave traces of melting on the glossy surface of the case.

When the glue is cut all around the perimeter, the halves of the body should start to diverge. Use plastic blades to finally snap the internal latches. Mechanical effort should be minimal; if you need force, then there's a connection somewhere left. Inside, you'll see the main board, the battery and the contacts to charge the headphones. Be careful not to damage the thin wires going from the battery to the control board.

• 🔥 Warm up the perimeter of the case with a hairdryer during 2-3 minute.
• 🔪 Carefully insert the blade into the joint and lead along the seam.
• 👐 Use suction cups or plastic shoulder blades to open.
• ⚡ Turn off the battery plume immediately after opening.

⚠️ Warning: Never use metal tools to lever inside the case when the board is visible.One awkward movement can close contacts and cause a short circuit.

Diagnostics and battery replacement

Inside the case, the main element that needs to be replaced is the battery, which is usually a 3.7V or 3.85V lithium polymer battery, soldered by wires to the board or connected through a connector. Before removing the old cell, you need to measure its voltage with a multimeter. If the voltage is below 2.5V, the battery is deeply discharged and needs to be replaced. Replacing the battery is the most common type of repair of these devices.

The battery is often glued to the bottom of the case or to the board with double-sided tape. To extract it, carefully heat the landing site with a hairdryer and put the battery in a plastic shovel. In no case, do not puncture or bend the battery, this can lead to fire. After removing the old element, clean the landing site of glue residues with alcohol or a special cleaner.

The new battery should have identical dimensions and connector. If you buy a battery without a connector, you will have to re-sweeten the wires from the old cell, observing the polarity. Red wire is plus (+), black is minus (-). The soldering of contacts should be done quickly so as not to overheat the battery terminals. Use a soldering iron with a thin sting and a quality flux. After connecting, check the voltage on the board contacts before final assembly.

Assembly of the device and verification of functionality

Before final assembly, make sure all components are in place and nothing prevents the lid from closing. Wipe the inside of the case from dust and glue residue. The final assembly is done in reverse order: first the battery is installed and connected to the board, then the main board is laid. Make sure that the display LEDs match the holes in the case.

Connect the halves of the case, making sure that all the latches fall into place. If the body is coming together tightly, do not press hard, check whether any wire or plume will clamp. After closing the halves, the case is recommended to wrap with rubber tape or place under the press for 15-20 minutes for better adhesion of the adhesion (if you used a new glue B-7000 or analogue).

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Quality assembly requires cleanliness inside the body: any speck of dust can cause crunch or loose fit of the lid.

Once assembled, connect the case to the charger. The indicator should light up to signal the start of charging. Check if the headphones are charging by inserting them into the sockets. If all the stages are successful, the device is ready for use. Function testing is a mandatory step to ensure that the work is done. If the indicator flashes differently than usual, you may need to reset the headphones.

• ✅ Check the density of the case cover.
• ✅ Make sure that the LEDs are visible in the holes.
• ✅ Connect the charging and check the indicator reaction.
• ✅ Insert headphones and check each person's charge.

⚠️ Warning: If the case warms up when charging or makes extraneous sounds after assembly, immediately disconnect it from the network and re-diagnose.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)