How to disassemble Xiaomi Mi wireless headphones: the complete guide

Modern fully wireless headphones, such as the popular Xiaomi Mi True Wireless Earbuds, are designed with the expectation of compactness and moisture protection, which often makes them almost indissoluble for the average user. Manufacturers use glue and hidden latches to minimize gaps, but it also becomes a headache when trying to replace a failed battery or clean a dynamic grid. If your device stopped holding charge or the sound became quiet, self-repair can be the only economical solution before buying a new pair.

The process of opening the case requires not only special tools, but also maximum accuracy, since the internal components are very tight. Any improper movement can damage the plumes or break the thin wires connecting the control modules to the batteries. In this article, we will discuss in detail the algorithm for disassembling the popular models of the Mi AirDots and Mi True Wireless series, so that you can safely diagnose or replace the elements.

It should be noted that once opened, the sealing of the case will be broken, and the protection against moisture IPX4 will cease to work fully, which means that after repair, the device will become more vulnerable to sweat and rain, so all work must be carried out in a dry room with good lighting.

Tools and workplace preparation required

Before any electronic manipulations begin, you need to organize a high-quality workplace where nothing is lost and does not roll under the table. To disassemble Xiaomi miniature devices, a standard set of screwdrivers will not be enough, you will need a specialized tool for working with small electronics. Pay special attention to lighting, since the internal parts are often made in black and are poorly distinguishable in dim light.

The main tool will be a set of precision screwdrivers, including cross bits PH00 and PH000, as well as flat versions up to 1.5 mm. To work with a plastic case, which is usually glued, you will need thin metal blades or special plastic mediators, so as not to damage the outer surface of glossy headphones.

• 🔧 A set of precision screwdrivers with magnetic tips for twisting micro-screws.
• 🔪 Thin scalpel or blade for careful cutting of the adhesive layer around the perimeter.
• 🌡️ Hair dryer or heating platform for softening the glue (temperature not higher than 80)°C).
• 🧲 Magnetic mat or organizer for sorting screws of different sizes.

⚠️ Note: Using a stationery knife without a blade limiter can lead to slipping and serious injury to the fingers, as the effort to open the dense glue requires significant.

Also, be sure to prepare isopropyl alcohol or a special adhesive solvent that will help separate the halves of the body without the use of excessive physical force. Having tweezers with curved ends will make it easier to work with small plumes and wires inside the compact battery compartment.

Body Anatomy and Search for Hidden Helices

Construction of the majority TWS-Xiaomi’s headphones are built on a “sandwich” principle, where the two halves of the body are connected by glue and, in rare cases, hidden screws. Visually, there are often no visible holes on the surface of the device, which creates the illusion of monolithicity. However, engineers sometimes hide fasteners under silicone embroideries or decorative stickers.

The first thing you need to do is remove the silicone nozzle and look carefully at the inside of the speaker bowl. In some versions of the Mi True Wireless Earphones, one or two micro screws can be located right there, under the rubber layer. If there are no screws, then the body is solely based on adhesive and internal plastic latches that require careful opening.

To access the insides, you often need to remove the external touchpad or speaker grid, you need to act slowly, putting elements around the perimeter with a thin blade, and it is important not to damage the speaker membrane, which can be located just behind the decorative grille, since its replacement is almost impossible without damaging the module itself.

If you find screws under the sticker, you need to unscrew them before the housing starts heating, otherwise the glue can leak into the thread and jam the tool. In screwless models, the main emphasis is on temperature exposure to soften the adhesive layer.

The process of opening the body and separating the halves

The most critical stage of the repair is to separate the main part of the case, where the board and battery are located. Heating is a prerequisite, since cold glue holds the plastic very tightly. Use a hair dryer at minimum power, evenly warming the perimeter of the seam for 1-2 minutes, avoiding hot air directly on the dynamic membrane.

After warming up, insert a thin blade or metal spatula into the seam and make a neat incision in a circle. Do not try to unpack the body at one point - this will lead to chips and cracks on the glossy surface of the Xiaomi Mi AirDots. Move gradually, cutting through the glue and at the same time slightly pushing the halves of the body.

Once the perimeter glue is cut, the halves of the body can still be connected by a thin plume or wires. You can't open the device sharply, you can visually assess what connects the two parts first. Usually, wires coming from buttons or LEDs, or a plume of the main speaker.

Inside, you'll see a main circuit board attached to a plastic box, often also locked in glue or soldered to the contacts, and it may require the speaker or battery wires to be despatched to fully retrieve the filling if they interfere with access to the desired component.

Replacement of the battery and work with soldering

The most common cause of disassembly is the failure of a lithium polymer battery, which eventually loses capacity. Xiaomi headphones use small form factor batteries, often without a standard connector, but with wires soldered directly to the board, which requires the skills to work with a soldering iron and knowledge of basic electrical safety.

To remove the old battery may need to tamper with a thin spatula, if it is planted on a double-sided tape. The main rule is not to damage the shell of the battery and not overheat it with a soldering iron, as this can lead to fire or bloating. Before soldering the wires, it is recommended to fix the board in the vice or third-hand clamp.

• 🔋 Carefully unfurl the red (plus) and black (minus) wires from the contacts on the board.
• ✂️ Separate the old battery, trying not to damage the neighboring components on the board.
• 🧹 Clean the contacts on the board from the remnants of the old solder for high-quality soldering of the new element.
• 🔌 Salt a new battery, observing polarity, and fix it on a double-sided tape.

⚠️ Warning: Confusing polarity when soldering a new battery will instantly put the charge controller out of action, and the headphones will stop responding to the charger forever.

The new battery must have exactly the same dimensions as the original, otherwise it may not fit into the case or, worse, will create pressure on other components. After soldering, be sure to check the voltage at the contacts with a multimeter before final assembly to make sure the connection is correct.

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Use a soldering iron with a thin sting and a temperature not higher than 300 ° C, so as not to overheat the plastic elements of the case and board. The contact time of the stinger with the wire should not exceed 2-3 seconds.

Cleaning dynamic grid and sound maintenance

If the cause of the disassembly was a quiet sound or lack thereof, the problem is often the contamination of the metal mesh speaker earwax and dust. Unlike replacing the battery, this procedure is less risky, but requires delicacy, so as not to damage the membrane itself, which is just behind the mesh.

Remove the speaker grid if it's detached, or clean it directly on the case. Isopropyl alcohol and a soft toothbrush are perfect for this. You can also use an ultrasonic bath for the speaker itself, but only if it's completely removed from the case and disconnected from the electronics.

Often, the sound is lost due to the oxidation of the plume or connector contacts. Wipe the contacts with alcohol and examine them under magnification for microcracks. If the speaker membrane is broken or has visible deformations, you will not be able to restore the quality sound - you will need a complete replacement of the dynamic module.

After cleaning, allow all components to dry completely before assembly, and moisture residue inside the case can cause a short circuit when the device is first turned on or charged.

Assembly of the device and check of performance

The final stage is assembly, which is often more difficult to disassemble, because you need to fit all the components back into a tight housing. Make sure all the wires are stacked in their channels and not clamped with plastic halves. wires going to the speaker should lie loose, without tension.

To fix the case, use a new layer of glue (B-7000 or analog), applying it with a thin strip along the perimeter. Squeeze the halves of the body hard and lock them with stationery gums or in the vices for 1-2 hours before completely drying. Extra glue, remove with a dry wipe before freezing.

Once assembled, test: connect the headphones to your smartphone, check the left and right channels, microphone and touch controls. If all functions are working correctly, you can consider the repair successfully completed.

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Quality assembly requires not only the connection of the halves, but also the correct stacking of all internal wires so that they do not rub over time.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)