Redmi 4 series smartphones have earned a reputation for being "unkillable" workhorses, but even they are not immune to a screen drop or battery bloating. Self-opening the case can seem a daunting process for a beginner, but with the right tools and knowledge, this procedure is quite feasible at home. The main difficulty is that the back panel here is not removable, like in old phones, but glued around the perimeter.
Before you start disassembling, you need to be clear about the risks. Opening the case automatically deprives you of warranty if it is still valid. In addition, careless actions can damage the plumes or break the battery. However, if you are willing to act carefully, you can save a significant amount of money on the services of the service center. In this article, we will discuss in detail each stage of dismantling.
To do this successfully, you need not only a desire, but also a specialized tool. Using knives or screwdrivers in the eye often leads to chipped plastic and cuts in the hands. Good workplace preparation is a guarantee that small cogs will not be lost and components will not be damaged by static electricity. Let's look at what you need to prepare before you start.
⚠️ Warning: Before starting any work, be sure to turn off the smartphone. Attempting to turn off the battery plume when the device is on can lead to a short circuit and the motherboard fails.
Tools and workplace preparation required
The quality of the disassembly starts with the organization of the space. You need a flat surface with good lighting, where nothing will distract from the process. Magnetic mat or a special organizer for screws will become your best friends, because the Xiaomi Redmi 4 design uses fasteners of different lengths. If you confuse them during the assembly, you can damage the internal components or break the thread.
The basic toolkit should include several mandatory items, without which opening of the sealed case is almost impossible without damage, pay special attention to mediators or plastic cards - metal can leave traces on the frame or damage the adhesive layer.
- 🔧 Screwdriver kit: cross PH000 for screws of the body and flat for neat tweaking of elements.
- 🔥 Hair dryer or thermophen: Necessary for softening the glue under the back cover, a regular hair dryer may not be able to handle.
- 💳 Plastic card or mediator: to separate the cover without scratches and chips.
- 🧲 Magnetic mat or container with cells: for sorting screws of different sizes.
It is also recommended to have isopropyl alcohol or a special adhesive solvent B-7000 on hand if you plan to glue the lid back. Thin tweezers will help extract small parts, and a suction cup will facilitate the initial stage of separation of the panel. Don't forget about safety: working with heated glass and sharp tools requires concentration.
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Use the suction cup only after preheating the glue. If the suction cup breaks, heat the surface again, do not use excessive force to prevent the glass from cracking.
Analysis of the design and mounting points of Redmi 4
Xiaomi Redmi 4 (Standard, Prime, Pro) design involves a metal case with plastic inserts for antennas. The rear cover is attached around the perimeter to a two-part glue and held by multiple screws under plugs or directly under the frame. Understanding the internal architecture of the device helps avoid errors when applying effort.
Inside the smartphone, the main components are protected by a metal screen, which is also screwed, the display plumes and the battery are located in the upper and lower parts of the motherboard, respectively. If you unguardedly open, there is a risk of damage to the main camera plume or charging module, which are in close proximity to the lid socket lines.
It's important to distinguish between device modifications. In the Pro version, the layout may be slightly different from the standard model, especially in the heat sink area of the processor. The metal frame serves not only as a framework, but also as a ground element, so it's important to not lose contact areas when building.
Features of the metal body
And you have to pay special attention to the location of the volume and on buttons, which are mechanically connected to the side face, and when you have a lot of pressure, the tool can break out of the seats, and being careful in the corners of the device is key to success, because that's where the hidden latches are often hidden.
The process of heating and separation of the back cover
The most critical step is to soften the adhesive layer. The glue used by the manufacturer holds the lid tight at room temperature. The heating is necessary to make it plastic. Use a hair dryer at about 80-90 degrees Celsius. Don't hold it too close to one point for more than 10-15 seconds so as not to damage the display matrix or internal plastic elements.
You need to warm up evenly throughout the perimeter of the device, paying special attention to the corners. After 2-3 minutes of heating, try to gently apply the lid with a mediator in the area of the charging connector or speaker. If the tool does not enter, the heating should continue. Sharp movements are prohibited - they can lead to cracks in the glass.
Once you've got the mediator in, start driving it along the perimeter, gradually cutting through the adhesive layer. Keep the tool at a minimum angle to the plane of the lid so you don't scratch the side frame. Move slowly, feeling resistance. If the lid is tight, it's better to add more heat than to apply force.
- 🌡️ Heat the perimeter evenly, moving the hair dryer in circular movements.
- 🔪 Enter the mediator into the gap between the frame and the cover, not the cover itself.
- 🔄 Click on 2-3 centimeter-long.
- 👀 Visually control the depth of the instrument immersion so as not to touch the battery.
Once the entire perimeter is passed, the lid should be easily separated. Don't rush it off completely, as a fingerprint scanner may be glued to it (depending on the modification and regional version).
☑️ Steps of lid removal
Dismantling internal components and protecting the battery
When you remove the back cover, you'll see the inside of your smartphone, and the first thing you need to do if you're going to do serious work is to turn off the battery, the battery plume is under a metal shield that's mounted by screws, and the power cut is a critical step to ensure that you can safely disassemble it.
Most of the components will require many screws to be twisted around the perimeter of the metal frame, use a magnetic screwdriver to keep the mount from dropping inside the case, and when the frame is removed, you will have access to the motherboard, cameras and connectors, and be careful with the plumes, which are very thin and easily torn.
If your goal is to replace the battery, you'll need to remove the bottom board and the speakers that often hold the battery in the seat after you turn off the plume, and in some cases, the battery is also planted on glue, and you'll need to carefully smear it with a plastic blade to remove it.
| Component | Location. | Type of attachment | Risks of withdrawal |
|---|---|---|---|
| Back cover. | External perimeter | Glue + screws | Glass cracks, frame chips. |
| metal frame | Internal perimeter | PH000 screws | Carving failure, screw loss |
| Battery | Lower part of the hull | Clay + Schleife | Puncture, fire, bloating. |
| Maternity fee | Upper part | Screws + plumes | Trail break, statics |
⚠️ Attention: Lithium polymer battery is easily ignited when the case is damaged.If you notice bloating or smell chemicals, stop working immediately and ensure that the room is ventilated.
When working with the motherboard, avoid touching contacts with your fingers. Fat marks can oxidize over time and lead to unstable operation of the device. All unscrewed screws are sorted by disassembly stages, as they can vary in length even within the same node.
Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
One of the most common mistakes is to try to open the phone without heating, which guarantees damage to the back panel, which you have to change completely after that, patience with heating saves money and nerves, and do not try to use a knife or blade for picking - this is a direct path to cuts and deep scratches.
Another common problem is losing the screws or getting them mixed up. A longer screw screw screw screw screwed into a hole for a short one can get into the motherboard and damage it when tightened, keep a detailed log of activities or use a magnetic map with markup.
Ignoring plumes is a fatal mistake. When lifting the lid, many people forget that a fingerprint scanner or an on button can be glued to it. A sharp jerk causes the plume to break, the restoration of which requires soldering and the qualification of an engineer. Always check for connections before completely separating the parts of the case.
- 🚫 Do not use metal tools to remove plastic.
- 🚫 Do not heat your phone for more than 5 minutes without interruption to avoid overheating of internal components.
- 🚫 Do not ignore the ballooned battery - its replacement is mandatory before further disassembly.
Also worth mentioning is static electricity: In dry rooms, especially in winter, the risk of static discharge is high, before touching the board, it is advisable to touch a grounded metal object or use an antistatic bracelet.
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The main reason for failure in self-repair is the rush and neglect to heat the glue. Let the device cool and warm up evenly.
Assembly of the device and check of performance
The assembly is done in reverse order. Before you install the back cover, you need to clean the old glue residue from the frame and the cover itself. Use isopropyl alcohol and a plastic blade. The surface should be perfectly clean and fat-free for a reliable grip of the new glue.
Apply a thin layer of special adhesive (e.g., B-7000 or T-7000) around the perimeter of the frame. Do not apply the adhesive too close to the screw holes so that it does not squeeze in and hit the components. Let the glue dry a little (1-2 minutes) to the state of Velcro, then gently apply the lid.
Once the lid is installed, hold it with rubber rings or a 15-20 minute load for primary polymerization. The glue takes about 24 hours to dry completely, but it gains primary strength quickly. After assembly, be sure to check all buttons, speakers, microphones and communication modules.
Turn on your smartphone and make sure the system sees the battery and displays the charge correctly. Check the touchscreen across the screen for dead zones. If everything is working properly, you can consider the repair successfully completed.