Owners of the popular Xiaomi Mi Electric Scooter often face an aesthetic question: how to return the device to the factory gloss or, conversely, give it a unique appearance. The standard gray deck over time is covered with chips, scratches and scuffs, especially if you actively use transport in urban conditions.
Before you go to a construction store, you need to clearly understand that painting a scooter is not just about applying color, but creating a protective layer. The wrong composition may not grasp the metal, crack at the first vibration or climb under the influence of moisture. In this article, we will discuss in detail how to paint a Xiaomi scooter to coat for years, and consider the nuances of surface preparation.
Is it worth spending time on your own work or better to turn to professionals? If you want to get a unique design and save a significant amount of money, self-painting is a great option. However, to achieve a quality result, you will need not only a spray of paint, but also patience, and compliance with all the technological stages of preparation.
Choosing the type of paint for aluminum deck
The aluminum alloy that makes the Xiaomi M365 and Pro scooter deck has a specific chemical inertia. Normal paints designed for wood or ferrous metals simply can't hold on them without special soil. So the first step is to choose the right chemical composition. Aerosol enamel is the most common and affordable solution, but the quality varies greatly.
To achieve professional results, it is recommended to use automotive enamel or specialized metal paints. They have high elasticity, which is critical for a vehicle that is constantly subjected to vibrations. Water-based acrylic compounds dry quickly, but are less resistant to mechanical damage, while alkyd enamels create a stronger, but long-drying film.
β οΈ Warning: Never use water-based paints without applying a powerful lacquer coating. Moisture trapped under a layer of such paint when washing a scooter will cause rapid swelling and detachment of the coating.
If you're looking for maximum durability, look for two-part epoxy paints that create a monolithic coating that is resistant to gasoline, oils and stone strikes. However, they're harder to work with: once the components are mixed, you have limited time to apply, and cleaning the tool requires special solvents.
Special attention should be paid to the Plastic Dip, which creates a matte, touch-friendly layer that is easy to remove, just to peel off the film if the design is boring, ideal for those who are afraid of spoiling the factory paint or plan to temporarily change the color of the scooter.
Essential tools and supplies
The quality of the final result depends on what you do, and even the most expensive paint will fall short if you use a cheap sprayer or dirty rags. To fully restore the deck, you will need to assemble a set of tools that will ensure uniform application and protection of the surrounding parts.
First of all, take care of personal protective equipment. Solvent vapors and fine dust from grinding are bad for the airways. Be sure to use a carbon filter respirator and safety glasses. You will also need rubber gloves to avoid leaving greasy marks on the low-fat surface.
List of necessary materials for work:
- π οΈ sandpaper of different grains (P80, P240, P600, P1000) step-wise.
- π§΄ Degreasing agent (antisilicone, white spirit or special degreaser for the body).
- π¨ Aluminum ground enamel or acid soil to improve adhesion.
- πΏ Paint tape and cover film or old newspapers to protect electronics.
- π¨ Compressor and spray gun (optional, to obtain the ideal "shagrene" structure or gloss).
If you use aerosol cylinders, be sure to buy a special spray pen that allows you to hold the balloon tighter and makes the spray torch more uniform, which eliminates the leaks, and also remember to use a solvent to wash the spray gun or clean your hands during operation.
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Before you start, remove the deck from the scooter. Painting in the assembled state is almost guaranteed to lead to the paint getting on the bearings, motor wheel and controller, which can bring the equipment down.
Surface preparation: dismantling and grinding
The most time-consuming step, which depends on how long the new paint lasts. Preparing the surface involves completely disassembling the knot, removing the old coating and creating roughness to clutch the ground. Don't try to paint the scooter "over" the old paint - this is a temporary solution that will quickly peel off.
Start by removing the deck. You have to disconnect it from the steering rack and remove the wheels. If there are plastic plugs on the deck, they also need to be removed. Any holes that can get paint or dust should be taped with paint tape. Pay special attention to the places where the controller is attached and the wires are output.
The process of machining the surface is as follows:
- With a large sandpaper (P80-P120) remove the main layer of old paint and deep scratches.
- With medium sandpaper (P240-P400) remove the risks from the large abrasive and level the surface.
- With fine sandpaper (P600-P800), create a uniform matteness throughout the deck area.
- Wash the part thoroughly with water with detergent to remove aluminum dust.
Once the water is dry, you go into degreasing, wipe the entire deck surface with a lintless wipe dipped in a degreaser, move from the edges to the center, constantly changing the napkin so you don't smear the fat back, and then you're not allowed to touch the surface with your hands in gloves.
β οΈ Warning: Aluminum grinding produces fine dust that is explosive in high concentrations and harmful to the lungs. Work in a well-ventilated environment or outdoors using a respirator.
βοΈ Checklist for surface preparation
Technology of applying soil and paint
When the surface is ready, the creative process begins. It's important to understand that primer is not an option, it's a necessity for aluminum. It creates a chemical bond between the metal and the finishing surface. Use the soil tone the primary color or universal light gray if the paint is covert.
Apply the soil in thin layers from a distance of 20-25 cm. Don't try to paint everything the first time - this will lead to leaks. Let each layer dry according to the instructions on the cylinder (usually 10-15 minutes). After drying the soil, it is recommended to go through the surface with a "zero" (P1000) once again to remove possible shaking, and degrease again.
The main layer of paint is applied similarly:
- π¨ The first layer is "dust" and is applied very thinly, barely noticeable, so that the paint catches with the ground.
- π¨ The second and third layers are the main layers, applied wet and wet, covering the previous layer by 50%.
- π¨ The finish layer - fixing, can be a little more abundant to achieve gloss.
Between the layers, pause to vaporize the solvent. If you feel that you've started to leak, don't try to brush them with your hand or finger. Let the paint dry completely (better leave it for a day), gently shave the flow with fine sandpaper and repaint the area.
The secret of the perfect gloss
Protection of coating: lacquering and drying
Finishing is necessary if you used regular enamel without a lacquer component. Lacquer protects the pigment from sunburn, abrasion of the soles of shoes and exposure to reagents that are sprinkled with roads in winter.
Drying is a critical step that cannot be accelerated artificially using hair dryers or heat guns. Heat can lead to bubbles and uneven drying of layers. The best way to dry is natural, in warm, dry and dust-free rooms at temperatures ranging from +20Β°C to +25Β°C.
The time to fully polymerize the paint can be as long as a few weeks, the coating will appear hard in the first days, but the chemical processes are still going on inside, during which time try not to assemble the scooter completely and not to put the deck under stress. The optimal waiting time before operation is 72 hours.
| Type of coating | Drying time (layer) | Complete polymerization | Resilience |
|---|---|---|---|
| aerosol enamel | 15-20 minutes | 24 hours. | Medium |
| Acrylic lacquer | 30-40 minutes. | 48 hours. | Tall. |
| Two-component lacquer | 1-2 hours | 7 days | Maximum |
| Liquid rubber | 30-60 minutes. | 24 hours. | Low (removable) |
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The quality of the final coating depends on the temperature and humidity in the room, and high humidity will lead to clouding of the varnish (the βbleachβ effect), which cannot be removed without repainting.
Frequent Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
Even skilled craftsmen sometimes make mistakes that negate all efforts, and one of the most common problems is the appearance of an orange peel, which occurs when the paint is put on the bougers, because it is too thick, too far from the surface, or because the spray gun is pressed in the wrong way.
Another problem is the flaking of paint in layers, which is a sure sign of poor surface preparation: insufficient degreasing or lack of primer. Aluminum oxidizes in air in seconds, so the gap between grinding and applying the soil should be minimal.
To avoid disappointment, remember:
- π« Do not paint in the cold or in direct sunlight.
- π« Do not skimp on paint scotch - it should be of high quality and do not leave glue.
- π« Do not attempt to paint over rust (oxides) without mechanical cleaning to live metal.
If you notice defects after assembly, do not rush to redo everything. Small scratches can be polished with polishing paste, and small chips can be gently painted with a brush to choose the color.