Catching the dance of the Northern Lights is a cherished dream for many travelers stranded in the north. However, when the sky lights up with green and purple flashes, it often turns out that the human eye sees more than a smartphone lens. Owners of Xiaomi and Redmi devices have powerful nighttime tools in their arsenal, but the standard automatic mode often fails to cope with the faint glow of Aurora.
The problem is that image processing algorithms try to pull out light by creating digital noise and lubricating clouds. To get a frame that you can be proud of, you need to take control of your camera settings. In this article, we'll look at how to turn your phone into an astrophotography tool.
You don't need expensive equipment or a tripod, although the latter will make it much easier, but you need to understand the physics of the process and be able to adjust exposure settings correctly, and let's find out what hidden possibilities are hidden in a standard MIUI or HyperOS camera app.
Preparation of equipment and choice of location for shooting
The first step to successful photography is not to set up the camera, but to find the right place. Urban lighting is the main enemy of astrophotography. Even if the bright, artificial light of the lanterns eats away at contrast and color reproduction of the sky. You need to get away from the settlements at least a few kilometers.
The stability of the phone is critical. Any long exposure time, any shaking of the hands will turn the stars and the aurora into blurred spots. If you don't have a tripod, use any fixed objects, such as rocks, parapets or sandbags, and in extreme cases, you can fly the phone against the snow, protecting it from the cold.
β οΈ Attention: Lithium-ion batteries of Xiaomi smartphones in the cold discharge extremely quickly. -10Β°C can reduce battery power by 30-40% Keep your phone in your inner pocket of your clothes, warming it with body heat between shots.
Also worth checking is the condition of the lens. In the cold, the lens may become foggy immediately after being removed from the warm pocket. Rub it with a soft cloth before shooting. Make sure the phone has a moisture protection app installed if you plan to shoot in snowfall, as melting snow can get into the speaker or charging port.
Setting up Pro mode in the standard Xiaomi camera
The standard MIUI and HyperOS camera app has a built-in professional mode that is often underestimated, which allows you to manually set all the necessary parameters, switch to Still β PRO mode or find the βProβ icon in the top interface menu.
The first thing you need to do is turn off all automatic enhancements. HDR, beautify (facial improvement) and AI-The scene is better removed, because they can conflict with manual exposure, so you can manually focus and twist the slider to the icon of the mountain or infinity, so that the focus is on infinity.
The key parameters here are ISO and shutter speed (S). For the Northern Lights, the balance between them is critical. If you put too high ISO, you get porridge of noise. If you put too long shutter speed, the aurora will smear into a uniform spot due to the movement of clouds.
- πΈ ISO: Set the value in the range from 800 to 1600.Sony Matrices models IMX series 7xx or 9xx may allow ISO 3200, but it is better to check the result on the screen.
- β±οΈ Shutter speed: Optimal range is 2 to 10 seconds. Start with 4 seconds and adjust depending on the rage of the aurora.
- π Focus: Always fix manually to infinity, autofocus in the dark will "scour".
Remember, the screen of your phone can lie by its brightness. What looks bright and saturated on the display can be dark and noisy on your computer. Take test shots and immediately evaluate the histogram if your phone model supports its display in Pro mode.
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Use a 3 or 5-second self-start timer. Pressing the downhill button even on a fixed phone creates a microvibration that will lubricate the frame at long shutter speeds.
Use of third-party applications for astrophotography
If Xiaomiβs standard camera doesnβt give you the control you want to control noise, you should turn to specialized software. Apps like Open Camera or paid solutions like ProCam X allow you to use the Camera2 API at a deeper level, bypassing some of the manufacturerβs limitations.
Applications that support RAW (DNG) format are especially useful, and RAW captures all the information from the matrix without the aggressive compression and noise reduction that Xiaomi uses by default, which provides a huge opportunity for subsequent processing on the computer.
To activate full potential Camera2 API On some Xiaomi models, you may need to include debugging on USB and the introduction of special commands through ADB, though on the flagship of the Xiaomi series 13/14 Xiaomi 12S Ultra is open by default. You can check the support level through the app. Camera2 API Probe.
| Parameter | Standard camera (JPEG) | Third-party software (RAW/DNG) | Recommendation |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dynamic range | Limited by algorithms | Maximum | RAW for pros |
| File size | 3-8 MB | 20-40 MB | I need a memory card. |
| Noise suppression | Minimum | Better to clean up in the editor. | |
| Processing speed | Instantly. | It takes time. | RAW slower |
Work with RAW-You have to do your own white balance and make noise out of editors like Lightroom, but the result is worth it: you can pull out the details in the shadows that a standard camera would just paint in black.
The secret of the night mode Xiaomi
Optimal ISO values and exposures
Finding the balance between light sensitivity and exposure time is an art. The Northern Lights are dynamic. It can shimmer slowly or pulsate quickly. If the aurora is active and moving fast, long exposure will turn beautiful structures into a formless cloud.
For a calm, slow-changing glow, you can use shutter speeds of up to 15-20 seconds, in which case the ISO is better kept low (400-800) to keep the sky clean. Stars at this exposure will start to turn into short tracks, but the structure of the aurora will remain clear.
If you observe the active phase with "dancing" rays, reduce the shutter speed to 1-3 seconds. To compensate for the lack of light will have to raise ISO to 1600-3200. Modern sensors Sony used in flagships Xiaomi, quite tolerably cope with such values.
β οΈ Attention: Avoid using digital zoom. When shooting in the night sky, it just cuts off the center of the matrix and programmatically stretches the image, dramatically increasing the amount of noise.
Experiment with exposure bracketing. Make a series of three frames with different brightnesses: normal, underexposed and overexposed. Later, you can choose the best one or combine them manually.
Processing night pictures on a smartphone
Shooting is only half the battle. Digital photography, especially night photography, almost always requires fine-tuning. Xiaomi's built-in gallery editor offers basic tools, but for serious work, it's better to use Google Photos, Snapseed or the mobile version of Lightroom.
First of all, adjust exposure and contrast. Often, the glowing images look faded. Raising contrast and darkening black dots (Shadows) will help highlight the structure of the clouds and make the sky deeper. But don't overdo it to avoid losing detail in the dark areas.
- π¨ White balance: The aurora often has a greenish hue that the camera may misinterpret.Swift the temperature towards cold hues, but make sure the snow doesn't turn blue.
- π Noise suppression: Carefully use the Noise slider. Completely removing noise will make the photo plastic. Leave the light grain for naturalness.
- β¨ Clarity: Easy clarity enhancement (Structure/Clarity) accentuate the fine threads of the aurora.
If you've been shooting in RAW, you'll have more freedom, you'll be able to reconstruct the overlit areas of the sky that JPEG would have been just white spots, and this is especially true for bright flashes of aurora.
βοΈ Checklist before going out for shooting
Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
Beginners often make the same mistakes that negate all effort. The most common is shooting through glass. If you shoot from a car or home window, the glass will definitely give glare from the phone screen and internal light sources. In addition, the glass can be dirty or have a protective film, which will worsen the sharpness.
Another mistake is to ignore the composition. It's just that "sky with stars" looks boring. Try to include foreground objects in the frame: trees, houses, snowdrifts or a human silhouette, which will give the photos the scale and context.
And many people forget to turn off the flash. In Pro mode, the flash usually doesn't work, but in automatic modes or Night, the phone may decide it needs to light up the foreground. Make sure the flash is forced off.
β οΈ Warning: Do not use Video mode to record the aurora in the hope of taking a screenshot later. Bitrate video compresses the image strongly, and the quality of one frame from the video will be many times worse than that of a photo taken with the same shutter speed.
Keep in mind safety. Chasing a beautiful shot in the dark and in the cold can cause you to lose orientation or freeze. Always tell someone where you're going and don't get too far from your car or your apartment.
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The quality of the night shot is 80% dependent on the stability of the phone and the purity of the lens, and only 20% on the technical characteristics of the matrix.